anotherkiwi

The power (Watts) is less (PAS = Pedal Assist Sensor) Full charge 36v battery and typical 15 Amp controller = 630 Watts Empty battery = about 480 Watts Motor speed will also be reduced because it = RPM per Volt X number of Volts In the real world that means I used to recharge as soon as the voltage reached 35.9v or there abouts. Now that I use a 44v battery I recharge at 43.8v so I always have about the same or more power than with a full 36v battery.

Does it turn the motor off? If so it is working.

Anything I buy from China is VAT and duty free if the price is under 100€. The other solution is to buy from a company that has an EU warehouse like PSWpower, VAT is included (theoretically) in the price. Note that Bafang is setting up a factory in Poland so in the near future Bafang products will be VAT inclusive on the EU market and of course duty free.

Don't forget to factor in 10-20% less Ah than on the label: - salesmen are sometimes overly optimistic - over time the total capacity will diminish to about 80% of rated capacity so it is better to buy a larger battery than you think you need

What kind of coffee machine? How many kWh? How many hours will it be running? Once you have those numbers you will be able to calculate the size of your battery pack. You want a 48v motor and your batteries would be 2 x 24v used in series for the motor and in parallel for the 240v AC inverser. A 12v refrigerator is easy to run and doesn't require much power.

Yesterday was very productive! Lots of loose ends were tidied up: PAS I started out with PAS in the normal position as shown below The cable was extended to about 2.5 metres long and attached to the gear outers all the way back to the controller. The disk is zip tied to the 26 tooth chainwheel. Now it looks like this: I took the idler pulley off and after pressing the magnets out of an 8 magnet PAS disk placed it on top of the idler and drilled position holes with a tiny drill bit. I enlarged to magnet size and press fitted the magnets into the idler pulley. Now as the idler pulley turns in the opposite direction to the chainwheel, despite it being on the right hand side you need to use the left handed KT PAS sensor. Of course there was no room to mount the sensor (things are never that easy) I cut the mounting lugs off and double sided tape and a cable tie hold it in place. Cable is stock 50 cm long. Everything goes in the bag... I had ordered a couple of controller boxes from BMSBattery way back so the controller and its wiring connectors are nice and safe. I am not worried about heat at this time of year and I have a long term plan for a better home for the controller. The motor wire is full length from the controller to the 9 pin plug and held to the frame with Velcro tapes. If I want/need to ride with the analogue wheel I can unplug everything (3 connectors) and roll up the LCD and PAS cables and attach them to the rack. The 15 Ah battery is also in the pannier. The LCD4 on the wrong way (for the moment) And a detail of the Mxus nice and snug in the Rohloff OEM dropouts All in all I am very pleased with the look - very clean cable wise - and the performance. As noted elsewhere the motor is only used when I am not pedalling at 25 km/h and I average 32 km/h on the flat under my own steam (when I am fit). Where is the rear light/reflector? On the seat for the moment, I want to fit a Wingee mudguard pannier rack combination later when funds are available and the taillight will then go on that. A mounting plate for the trailer hitch, as you can see above there isn't enough space to fit it on the axle that dropout is 8mm thick. End of phase one!

I had my Number Two up in the workshop last week to replace chain and gears and gave it a quick wipe with a soft cloth. It did get a quick bucket wash last year at about the same time. I do wipe the trike down with a rag a bit more often just so that it looks pretty

Unfortunately Julet and Higo connectors are made in China and that is where you will find the lowest prices and the cheapest shipping (often "free"). I doubt very much that any European electronic parts shop stock such items which are only used where water resistant electrical connexions are needed.

Decathlon seem to prefer the absolute shortest bottom brackets for some reason. Dremel is your friend! I put a disk on the left hand side and to make it work I cut the centre of the disk out and mounted it to an adaptor cut from the bottom of a coffee can - more or less 4,500 km later there is a bit of rust but other than that it still works.

You might get away with 4 links, I just lengthened a chain to fit my 46:11-42 up from an 11-34 cassette and used 8 links and it is a bit sloppy. 7 links would have been perfect... Yes the 11-50 would be my first choice for a 1 X 9 setup. The cassettes aren't quite up to Sunrace quality but they aren't too bad, my 11-42 8 speed shifts nicely.

What size cassette do you have? Correct gearing is more than just a chainwheel. I have gone back to the stock 46 tooth on the GSM because I have a new 11-42 cassette, the motor would stall if I had an 11-32 cassette (real life experience).

1. They are plug and play. 2. Your motor needs headlight wiring output for the headlight control to work. You should have an unused plug coming out of the controller.

If the 38 is listed as being for a triple it will have the holes. Other 38s will be the external ring of a 2x setup.

First road test and I really like the compactness - some would say stealth but I'm not hiding anything. I can't see the average speed, do I have to ride for more than 9 km for that to display? Mine is on it's side for the moment but even upright there is no way I can see the screen while riding (it is behind my leg) and I really don't mind that at all. When I am stopped I can glance down and pick an assistance level, probably even while moving once I get it installed on the adaptor I have planned. In the long term there will be a GPS screen between my feet so I will get speed from that. The only readout that is really interesting is battery voltage, I will adapt to only seeing that from time to time. I can see myself cutting the tip off the thumb of my glove. Only really necessary when in conditions that require frequent and rapid changes of assistance level - say up in the mountain. I can feel the buttons through the glove but only just, they could have made those buttons higher. Maybe one could fit larger buttons, is this another 3D printer project?

It all comes down to the quality of the bearings in the hubs. If you have a mid drive bike with wheels built around DT Swiss ceramic bearing hubs then there will be less rolling resistance than cheap Chinese ball bearings in a hub motor.

Here the lad rides one with a 750W Bafang BBS02 marked (badly) 250W. He is set up as a proper business and insured and top speed is limited to 25 kph, I pass him under pedal power alone. I think 25 kph is the sweet spot for little old lady passengers... He charges 2€ per km with a 2€ fee per ride on top so a mile would cost 5.20€

I'm bent and electric! First test ride with the KT-LCD4 and the new non Bluetooth controller, the setup went smoothly but the LCD4 isn't for blokes with big fingers! Pressing the up and down arrow buttons simultaneously is a bit fiddly even for me. There is a typo in the online manual - passing from P settings to C settings is the sames as with all KT LCDs, press both up and down and not just the down button as written in the manual. I don't have all the information screens that are in the manual, I'll have to check what is going on. The LCD is on the bar on it's side while I am waiting on plastic to print out an adaptor. No problems using it with my gloves on, just take your time and find the right button. Of course set up like that the LCD is unreadable, maybe one day I'll put it on top of the bars and run the cable internally. I turned the controller down to 19 Amps (from 25) and that is still more power than I need, next step down is 17 Amps I think I'll be fine there. I set the LVC to 41.5v which is 3.46v per cell and just right for my 44v battery. Of course on the way home pulling just under 800 Watts the battery sagged to LVC and the controller switched off so that works at least! I turned the controller back on and did the last hill in assistance level 3 and on the 36 tooth chainwheel and everything was fine, a little slower is all. Resting voltage is now 44.26 so sag would be >2.76 volts. The Deore derailleur shifts just as well as the 7 speed Acera I had on Number Two and it isn't fine tuned yet. Setting it up was a walk in the park compared to the Alivio it replaced! And the Wippermann chain compared to the KMC is also a step up, so much quieter, and there is a lot of chain to be noisy on a trike - I used 2 and 2/3 chains. Last but not least I swapped out my tired Big Ben rear for a Maxxis DTH BMX tyre, a very nice ride and I feel much more comfortable and in control when the back end gets a wee bit loose...

Somewhere in the French postal strike there may be an eight speed shifter/brake lever combo, the nice Chinese man first sent me a 7 speed one by mistake... As soon as it gets here there will be two bikes in bits in the living room: - Alivio 8 speed rear derailleur off the trike (replaced by Deore 9 speed) - 11-42 8 speed cassette instead of 12-32 7 speed - original 46 tooth chainwheel back on the GSM. I will replace with a 42 tooth narrow/wide precialps one if it fails the climbing test out the back of my apartment. Fingers crossed, I want to keep the budget down despite the 46 tooth being boat anchor weight... - new Wippermann Connex chain after somewhere over 4750 km (remember all those km without a speed sensor at the beginning of this thread) I will also open the controller holder box for the first time since I mounted the lights to do a brief checkup (fingers crossed) and look at the headset bearings. Gearing comparison:

I think the first reason is mostly cost. A 10S4P battery is cheaper than a 13S4P battery because there are 12 fewer cells and at the price point of most hub motor bikes on the market that makes a very big difference. Second reason is weight - a 48v BPM is quite a bit heavier than a smaller rear hub motor. Extra weight means that the wheel build needs to be spot on and that also adds to cost. You will find larger, more powerful 48v motors in the wheels of cargo bikes which cost quite a bit more than your basic 400€ commuter/city bike.

Both. The charger detects that the SOC of the battery has reached 42v and turns the LED to green and stops sending current. If the battery drains to 41.xxv it will resume charging. The BMS starts balancing the cell groups when the SOC reaches 41.5v and when the first parallel group reaches 4.2v it will stop receiving current.

I can sustain 105 rpm for about 30 km, I haven't tried longer distances on the flat in quite a while. Any cadence below 90 I feel there is something wrong - either with me or with the gear I am in. Climbing very steep gradients I get down to about 60 rpm.

Here it is usually quite temperate so I had never experienced that until a "beast from the east" episode last winter - you can lose 33% (!) of capacity as I experienced.

1. the manufacturer could modify the internal gearing, this was done recently with the Bafang G310 hub which has high first stage rpm and 11:1 reduction final. There is no reason not to apply the same to a mid motor 2. https://www.bafang-e.com/en/oem-area/components/component/motor/mm-g30200c/ I think the Bosch motor may also use torque and cadence sensors, it has been a very long time since I read the tech specs for those motors.

My "only human input" is between 160-200W so I tend to notice wrong gearing more than someone putting in less effort I guess. Even at 100W human input being in the correct gear with a hub motor will extend battery range by a significant amount. I have stalled my mid motor once in bottom gear. That told me I needed to redo my gearing because unfortunately hills like that are not uncommon where I live (the Basques say "mountains" but they tend to exaggerate...).

From personal experience about 100 rpm on a 36v GSM mid motor. I don't have back EMF at 42v and above.