I see.... I found another one check this out, have you heard of this project:

 

https://www.unlimitedev.com/ebike

 

According to what they say in Indiegogo, Ill have to wait but it may be worth it? It seems simple.

 

Im also, researching at separate controllers and batteries in this site from Canada:

 

https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-kits/bafang-g310-311/front-g311-kit-advanced-pas-custom-build.html

 

Cheers,

 

Hi.

I was looking for a conversion kit for my bike and I stumble upon the Unlimited too, it looks awesome and its very cheap.

I have a friend who has the unlimited skateboard and he said if the bike conversion kit is as good as the skate it will be amazing.

I just want a simple conversion kit, I don't want to have a lot of cables and connectors. I don't know what a BMS is and I don't want to know I just want to convert my bike to electric without the hassle of all the electronics

Hi.

I was looking for a conversion kit for my bike and I stumble upon the Unlimited too, it looks awesome and its very cheap.

I have a friend who has the unlimited skateboard and he said if the bike conversion kit is as good as the skate it will be amazing.

I just want a simple conversion kit, I don't want to have a lot of cables and connectors. I don't know what a BMS is and I don't want to know I just want to convert my bike to electric without the hassle of all the electronics

 

Thanks man! Yes, this looks really user friendly! Did you contacted them? I may have a few questions regarding the battery and motor so I can explore further.

 

Cheers

Hi.

I was looking for a conversion kit for my bike and I stumble upon the Unlimited too, it looks awesome and its very cheap.

I have a friend who has the unlimited skateboard and he said if the bike conversion kit is as good as the skate it will be amazing.

I just want a simple conversion kit, I don't want to have a lot of cables and connectors. I don't know what a BMS is and I don't want to know I just want to convert my bike to electric without the hassle of all the electronics

 

It looks interesting, but a rubber band to hold on the PAS sensor? I hope they improve that. I can see lots of them falling off, or getting pinched if the bike is left anywhere. I wonder how long the battery lasts in the PAS sensor? Would be annoying to be in the middle of a ride and it dies.

 

They say "high voltage battery" then say the number of Wh it has...hmmm.

 

So how do you control the power when you are riding? Do you have to get your phone out?

 

How long will firmware and app support last?

 

I can see it will appeal to some, but I'd rather have wires and things you can adjust/fix, but then I'm old

It looks interesting, but a rubber band to hold on the PAS sensor? I hope they improve that. I can see lots of them falling off, or getting pinched if the bike is left anywhere. I wonder how long the battery lasts in the PAS sensor? Would be annoying to be in the middle of a ride and it dies.

 

They say "high voltage battery" then say the number of Wh it has...hmmm.

 

So how do you control the power when you are riding? Do you have to get your phone out?

 

How long will firmware and app support last?

 

I can see it will appeal to some, but I'd rather have wires and things you can adjust/fix, but then I'm old

Those are very good questions

In the FAQ it says that the pedal sensor would last between 3-6 months, I don't know if this is ok or not, but it seems to me that it's a long time.

I will contact them to see if they can answer some of those questions

2.8v per cell group is quite low for a BMS all of mine have lvc of about 3.2v, below this there isn't much capacity to be of use. The deeper the discharge the cells suffer from more stress and heat.

4.1v max charge will increase cycle life and good cells should remain in balance, there is no reason why not to carry out a full balance charge two or three times a year just to keep them in check in case they are straying a little. I only charge to 4.1v per cell group and know from my mileage if things are right, again I find the top 0.1v hold very little mah and within about 1.6km/1 mile it has been spent.

Edited June 11, 20205 yr by Nealh

2.8v per cell group is quite low for a BMS all of mine have lvc of about 3.2v, below this there isn't much capacity to be of use. The deeper the discharge the cells suffer from more stress and heat.

4.1v max charge will increase cycle life and good cells should remain in balance, there is reason why not to carry out a full balance charge two or three times a year just to keep them in check in case they are straying a little. I only charge to 4.1v per cell group and know from my mileage if things are right, again I find the top 0.1v hold very little mah and within about 1.6km/1 mile it has been spent.

 

 

Do you know what voltage your BMS starts it's equalisation phase? Most seem to kick in at 4.15V per cell, but if you are only charging to 4.1V, does the BMS get to equalise?

The charge balance will be at or above 4.15v per cell group as with most top cell balancing BMS. As I mentioned really good cells will remain well balanced without balance mode, it boils down to how well you know your battery and how it performs. You only need to carry out a full battery charge balance two or three times a year to make sure no cell groups stray, it is all down to how well you know your battery and how it performs.

The charge balance will be at or above 4.15v per cell group as with most top cell balancing BMS. As I mentioned really good cells will remain well balanced without balance mode, it boils down to how well you know your battery and how it performs. You only need to carry out a full battery charge balance two or three times a year to make sure no cell groups stray, it is all down to how well you know your battery and how it performs.

 

That's good to know. What sort of bank to bank voltage variation is acceptable? With the last BMS I bought it said each bank should be within 50mV, is that about right?

 

When I first got into e-bikes, I thought I'd build my own pack - how difficult could it be? But then my first attempt with a cheap BMS and cheap batteries, the BMS would shut the charger down before any of the cells were balanced and it was a mess.

 

So I gave up and ended up buying a couple of Yose Power packs. They were ok, but one had bad soldering on the fuse and failed and the other is beginning to have problems with the key switch.

 

Since then I've repaired the Yose Power unit and put in a better BMS and got rid of a lot of the thin wiring and unnecessary stuff and that pack is lighter and working very well now - although I've got no idea whether the BMS is balancing it properly. Will probably do the same to the other pack at some point.

 

Recently I've also been playing with longer strings to increase voltage, but my early experiences with BMSs make me suspect of what will happen long term and whether the BMS is balancing properly.

 

Then I saw some HG2 cells going cheap - most probably fake! There were enough to make a 10s 6p pack. I've put them together with a 45A BMS (probably total overkill!) and so I can study what is going on, I've put in a terminal block on top. This means I can check at anytime whether the cells are balanced.

 

From what you say, I may be over thinking this one...but it will be an interesting study! :-)

Those are very good questions

In the FAQ it says that the pedal sensor would last between 3-6 months, I don't know if this is ok or not, but it seems to me that it's a long time.

I will contact them to see if they can answer some of those questions

 

Convinced jaja! I'm placing an order today.

 

It seems really simple and the price is super accessible! You can chat and ask all the questions you want. They respond relatively fast

 

Thanks again!