Nealh

Most ebike fires if they were correctly reported one would think relate 99..9% to home made dodgy 1kw bikes using in correct charge procedures and especially Gaffa taped batteries slung on bikes also held with Gaffa.

Fire brigade data apparently claim lithium fires run a at a rate of one every five hours, for all types of usage in products.

One can use 24v lithium, it will be a huge upgrade on Nicad. Ah any amount one wishes for , Ah is just batteyr capacity so the more Ah the greater the bike range. The controller will not accept 36v as it is rated for 24v and LVC/HVC will not be recognised by said controller.

Yet where I live I see very little action of stopping or ceasing ebikes or scooters. Yesterday walking in to town centre I saw a plod marked push bike being ridden by plod in the main town shopping square , one illegal ebike being ridden on throttle and a scooter also being ridden. Both were allowed to carry on riding without hindrance.

Rear drive generally is better then front , one can put more power through a rear and the drops outs aren't and issue though maybe CF should be ignored. In most cases dropout filing is needed as axles are 12 x10 so not straight drop in for 9mm QR. Front requires ideally steel or chrome alloy forks and forget suspension , forks need to be rigid. Choose the right motor and fork selection and they should give effortless use and years of reliable service.

Is your reply from experience or hearsay ? I have had two front wheel drives and both have coped admirably with most terrain and condtions, speed controllers can be a bit slippy on loose terrain but never experienced it in the wet during three or four years of continuous commuting and errand riding. A KT current control system is the perect partner for front drive and my Road rat build is still going very strongly with the superb Bafang G370. I chose the G370 front hub because I adore the Alfine 8 twsit grip system , G370 for high internal gearing and ability to ride like a normal bike with no power. It is horses for courses dependent on the bike chosen and gearing preference.

I will say that any front hub drive should use current control rather then speed control. Current control gives one better traction and far better control of power applied. Yose are lishui speed control, one is better off with a KT current control system.

There are six blades which can be made out , but if there are eight it will be sensored. If only six it will be unsensored with the addition of a motor speed signal.

What voltage rating does the controller have on it ?

One thing I would say, is that a Torque sensing drive imv is not suitable for when one is tired. They do deliver power but the power is proportional to how much effort one can put in.

If China origin then any colour can be game.

29v is really too low for a 36v battery, one is better off with a 32v bottom cut off so as not to discharge cells too deeply.

There are no 42v batteries, a battery is sold as a nominal voltage battery, A 36v battery is a standard voltage, typically is has a usable voltage range of 32v - 42v. 40 .9V is a bit low, so the battery may not be fully charged or if it is fully charged then is likely out balance.

A cadence /magnet PAS set up combined with a current control controller is a totally different ride compared with a horrible speed control controller.

Quite simple what voltage is the charger or battery rated at ? 24v, 36v or 48v, in most cases one of the first two.

Very few OEM hub bikes and cheap China bikes will have current control systems, occasionally a sensible seller/producer will use a KT system but this is rare so 99.99% of hub bikes will have crappy speed control and that will also include mid drive bikes that don't use Torque sensing.

Another thing often not known is that most low powered hub EAPC's aren't matched with an appropriate RPM rated hub for hilly terrain.

All of the e bikes I have built/ used have always had the power I needed for undulating terrain riding up to 160km a day. I mainly use 70 - 80w of power in PAS 1 this enough for me to not have to work overly hard, on inclines then a boost using the other four PAS modes is more then ample. End of the day it isn't really about the motor rating but the power one puts through a motor, most 250w hubs or mid drive can take 500 - 750w of temporary power when needed. For some who know little about ebikes one expects they think they are going to ride moped like and forget it is simply a pedal cycle with added assist to aid riding and not simply to replace ones input power.

An update as we are now 8 years forward. Polyp growth had carried on exponentially and I was confirmed as being FAP also genetics say I have the APC gene which is genetic and is passed on. In Sept of 2024 , i had most my large bowel removed (subtotal colectomy) in a 6hr op and now am back to fairly good health. My last Sigmoidoscopy visit last Sept showed a clear Sigmoid bowel void of any more growths and I'm back to annual screening. I'm fairly lucky , I still have working bowel movements and can get away with three toilet visits per day. In respect of how devastating the genetic side is my slightly younger bother has many other issues having had bowel surgery and polyps appearing all over inside his abdomen. Also one of my first cousins (mums nephew) also died relatively young from the same genetics.

CANbus needs to see specific info via connected components otherwise know as handshaking/communications protocols. The extra three wires used are for communicating that the correct charger is being used. Without this handshaking /comms protocol these bikes are only useful as garden ornaments. Many bikes use CANbus , Bafang , Bosh and other top end expensive brands.

They are typical of China copies of shimano entry type models with the added bonus of having cut offs integrated, they are all over Aliexpress etc,etc. They will work and do the job better in place of cable brakes, 4 pistons vs 2 pistons supposedly give approx. 20% more braking improvement.

Sadly very few if any LBS will entertain opening a battery , as they will not have the knowledge let alone the time and cost implications. At 5 years old, one suspects it needs replacing unless a nearby amateur expert can take a look.

Nearly most 48v 250w marked hubs will be from an OEM bike or supplied kit specifically for the UK or EU market as requested by the supplier for it to be marked so. Very rare to buy direct form China 48v marked other then 350 or 500w, one could ask a vendor such as TBK if they can mark one as 205w ?

To check the battery balance the LBS will have to physically open the case and measure the 10 cell groups to see if one is out of balance.

Knackered battery syndrome or a battery badly out of balance, simply put when one applies more current ones gets voltage sag or for a balance issue one has a bad cell group with a low voltage reading. The important factor omitted is the the battery age ????