February 24, 20242 yr Author Cameras cost virtually nothing these days: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=4k+camera&_sacat=0&_sop=15 Smartphones are even cheaper. You can use them for calls texts, internet at filming. Why would you want to use a Nokia 3210? https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=smart+phone&_sacat=0&_odkw=4k+camera&_osacat=0&_sop=15 I just use a telephone for what it is intended. To make and receive calls and texts. Cameras are designed for taking pictures. Radios are designed for listening to music etc. I'm an 'old fashioned' guy and wouldn't want to spend a small fortune on a Smartphone that as all those extras that I would probably never use. I certainly wouldn't want to use the internet except when I'm at home where my laptop does that for me. My good old Nokia, which cost me less then £10 many years ago, works perfectly fine for me.
February 24, 20242 yr Author I use this stuff - you can order up to 5m lengths, or longer of you message them. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261262148436 I've just taken a look and it's gear cable. Not wide enough for brake cables I believe?
February 24, 20242 yr I've just taken a look and it's gear cable. Not wide enough for brake cables I believe? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261511568940?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=p5EP7AAZRf2&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
February 24, 20242 yr I've just taken a look and it's gear cable. Not wide enough for brake cables I believe? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261511568940?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=p5EP7AAZRf2&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Well spotted, apologies wrong link, thanks [mention=6777]Waspy[/mention]! I also use that brake outer cable.
February 24, 20242 yr Author Well spotted, apologies wrong link, thanks [mention=6777]Waspy[/mention]! I also use that brake outer cable. Thanks
February 24, 20242 yr I just use a telephone for what it is intended. To make and receive calls and texts. Cameras are designed for taking pictures. Radios are designed for listening to music etc. I'm an 'old fashioned' guy and wouldn't want to spend a small fortune on a Smartphone that as all those extras that I would probably never use. I certainly wouldn't want to use the internet except when I'm at home where my laptop does that for me. My good old Nokia, which cost me less then £10 many years ago, works perfectly fine for me. It doesn't. Your brake problem would probably have been solved in 5 minutes if you had taken a quick vide.
February 24, 20242 yr Webcams can record both video and photos to upload, even the £1 ones. £2 webcams are usually better. I suggest buying a Logitech within your price range, which has driver and software support for whatever the operating system is on your laptop, as they're usually pretty good. https://uk.webuy.com/search?stext=webcam&sortBy=price_asc Edited February 24, 20242 yr by guerney
February 24, 20242 yr Author It doesn't. Your brake problem would probably have been solved in 5 minutes if you had taken a quick vide. What doesn't? As I mentioned I don't have access to a camera to take a video. If that's what you mean? I have an old Konica battery operated digital camera somewhere in the wardrobe. If I can find it I'll take some pictures
February 24, 20242 yr What doesn't? As I mentioned I don't have access to a camera to take a video. If that's what you mean? I have an old Konica battery operated digital camera somewhere in the wardrobe. If I can find it I'll take some pictures Go for it.. pictures HELP EVERYONE see the same thing.. my digital camera (panasonic lumix) is always at hand when doing anything bike, if in doubt take a snap and you can put it back as it was etc.. and often blowing up a pic on the tv screen helps me see stuff i would have otherwise missed.. as well as posting pics here as and when ..
February 24, 20242 yr Author Go for it.. pictures HELP EVERYONE see the same thing.. my digital camera (panasonic lumix) is always at hand when doing anything bike, if in doubt take a snap and you can put it back as it was etc.. and often blowing up a pic on the tv screen helps me see stuff i would have otherwise missed.. as well as posting pics here as and when .. I'll have to dig it out then and get some batteries and go from there. Not entirely sure what anyone wants to see? The brake cantilevers? The cables? The handbrake levers?
February 24, 20242 yr Author Squeal is usually down to vibration. So what in the system is vibrating ? Is there any play in the arms sitting on the canti pegs, as in can you waggle them in and out ? obviously im not meaning waggle them back and forth, as thats what they're supposed to do but towards the frame and away from it. It looks like an inexpensive brake, so it might be a bit sloppy in the tolerances Full set of LX here for cheap. you likely have the pads already. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115977083956?itmmeta=01HQCMM1HYQE61WM3T1TYFQWDX&hash=item1b00c5dc34:g:NqwAAOSwDcllU6VV I cured the 'squeal' some time ago. I purchased a brake pad setting tool which set the 'toe in' correctly, which in turn stopped the squeal completely. The front and rear brakes worked perfectly, and efficiently for several months until recently.
February 24, 20242 yr Author Ok everyone. My Son as just took a few pictures. Maybe they will help? Thanks
February 24, 20242 yr Ok everyone. My Son as just took a few pictures. Maybe they will help? Thanks [ATTACH type=full" alt="IMG_1577.JPG]56563[/ATTACH][ATTACH type=full" alt="IMG_1579.JPG]56565[/ATTACH][ATTACH type=full" alt="IMG_1577.JPG]56563[/ATTACH][ATTACH type=full" alt="IMG_1578.JPG]56564[/ATTACH][ATTACH type=full" alt="IMG_1581.JPG]56567[/ATTACH] Well done mate, pictures always help. There are many very knowledgeable people here who are only too willing to help you....err not me of course, I have to watch Youtube to learn how to change a light bulb
February 24, 20242 yr From the picture it looks like your pads have worn low and allowed the brake arm to contact the mudguard.
February 24, 20242 yr Author From the picture it looks like your pads have worn low and allowed the brake arm to contact the mudguard. Nope. There is plenty of clearance when the lever is pulled and the pads are in contact with the rim. Those are the old pads I've reinstalled yesterday. They're hardly worn but replaced them with some other pads, one of which was Clarkes. They're all very much the same in operation.
February 24, 20242 yr So how much space between the brake arms and mudguard when the brake is pulled? looks like the mudguard is an obstacle
February 24, 20242 yr Author So how much space between the brake arms and mudguard when the brake is pulled? looks like the mudguard is an obstacle I have just double-checked this and when the lever is pulled and the pads are fully in contact with the rim I can easily get my index finger between each brake arm and mudguard. Also, I can get a coin between the cable and the top of the mudguard. This obviously shouldn't be the cause of the issue I wouldn't have thought. Good idea though! It's just the way the picture as been taken. Edited February 24, 20242 yr by chris301up
February 24, 20242 yr We need to see them working by video. Photos hardly show anything. What I can see is that one pad is only half on the rim and the other looks like it's touching the tyre. Also, the noodle doesn't look the right shape. It should turn a right-angle. Edited February 24, 20242 yr by saneagle
February 24, 20242 yr Author We need to see them working by video. Photos hardly show anything. What I can see is that one pad is only half on the rim and the other looks like it's touching the tyre. It took me ages to get my Son to take photos. When he calls again I can get him to take a video. I assume his phone will do that? The pads are not touching the tyre. I use a brake alignment tool as shown in picture. This sits between the pad and rim to set the 'toe in'. There is also an edge where it sits below the tyre. This ensures there is no contact whatsoever with the tyre itself. Edited February 24, 20242 yr by chris301up
February 25, 20242 yr Author Just an update everyone. Today I purchased another set of v-brakes. These are a little longer overall than the originals. They just about fit underneath the rear rack mount but create a little more room above the mudguard. They're also a little wider in design where the cables attach, thus giving a little more leverage overall I think? I have refitted the old brake pads as they're longer overall and create more contact with the rim itself. These seem to be working fine now but will probably need to 'bed in' I suppose to be more efficient? That's the situation for the moment anyway! Thanks everyone for your kind advice.
February 25, 20242 yr Author We need to see them working by video. Photos hardly show anything. What I can see is that one pad is only half on the rim and the other looks like it's touching the tyre. Also, the noodle doesn't look the right shape. It should turn a right-angle. The noodles on this bike are flexible and not the ninety degree fixed type
February 25, 20242 yr The noodles on this bike are flexible and not the ninety degree fixed type That might be part of the problem. The idea of the noodle is to turn the inner cable through 90 deg so that the inner cable lines up at both ends, but if you look at yours, there is a clear angle between the noodle and the cable exit at both ends. That means that the cable is restricted and rubbing where it goes in and out of the noodle.
February 25, 20242 yr Author That might be part of the problem. The idea of the noodle is to turn the inner cable through 90 deg so that the inner cable lines up at both ends, but if you look at yours, there is a clear angle between the noodle and the cable exit at both ends. That means that the cable is restricted and rubbing where it goes in and out of the noodle. Ok. I understand. Have been suspicious of this from the start. I just thought that is how Wisper designed these? I have some spare noodles and, when the new outer brake cable arrives, I'll swap them over and see if that improves the issue. Thanks
February 25, 20242 yr If I was going to bet, I'd go with the arms not vertical at the point of engagement and only one moves when you pull the brake lever, because that's what I see every time someone brings a bike with rim brakes to me. That's what the V-brakes were like on my secondhand bike. Just needed a clean, new inner and outer cables, adjustment, new brake pads.
February 25, 20242 yr That's what the V-brakes were like on my secondhand bike. Just needed a clean, new cables inner and outer, new brake pads. They're always like that. I have 5 friends who visit me regularly and have ordinary bikes with those same sort of brakes. I check and adjust them every time they visit with their bikes. Those brakes are just a PITA. The other type of rim brakes that you get on road bikes are fine. They hardly ever need adjustment - just an occasional cable adjustment to compensate for pad wear. Why do they always use that type on road bikes and the V-brakes for MTBs. Is it because they're worried about getting dirt and mud in the mechanism of caliper brakes? Surely, they can make bigger ones to wrap around MTB tyres?
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