Any idea on how to fix this

[GRXDYR]

I bought an electric bike conversion kit roughly 3 months ago and it has been working perfectly up until this past week.

All the cables and plugged together correctly and the LED lights on the throttle are all lit up. However the motor is just not spinning. Sometimes it does like a half spin and then the wheel just locks up but most of the time it does nothing at all.

If I spin the wheel with my hand and then turn the throttle it just makes a loud noise and then the wheel locks up.

I have already contacted the supplier and have been given a full refund so I’m not that bothered I just want to know if there is anyway I can fix this. I don’t know much about motors and electrics etc but I want to know if it’s a common issue or a simple fix.

I tried to upload a video but it won’t let me, basically the wheel just makes a loud noise and locks completely and just won’t spin.

Thanks.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

That's a simple timing issue. It normally comes when you didn't push the motor connector all the way in or you had a weak connection on one of the phase wires.

If you keep trying to run it like that, you'll blow the mosfets in the controller, if you haven't already.

You need to show us exactly what you have to get further advice - in particular, the controller and its connections.

 

[GRXDYR]

That's a simple timing issue. It normally comes when you didn't push the motor connector all the way in or you had a weak connection on one of the phase wires.

If you keep trying to run it like that, you'll blow the mosfets in the controller, if you haven't already.

You need to show us exactly what you have to get further advice - in particular, the controller and its connections.

Knowing my luck I’ve probably already blown it. It was a cheap voilamart 1000w 48v rear wheel conversion kit. The connectors from the wheel to the controller are just standard bullet connectors which all seem to be together correctly.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Knowing my luck I’ve probably already blown it. It was a cheap voilamart 1000w 48v rear wheel conversion kit. The connectors from the wheel to the controller are just standard bullet connectors which all seem to be together correctly.

They're probably in the wrong sequence then. They don't always go colour to colour. There's 36 combinations of which three will work correctly forwards and three will work backwards. All the others cause stuttering, clicking, jamming or rough running. Occasionally you get false positives, which make the wheel turn at 100 mph or turn normally but with massive current, which drains the battery in no time and melts the phase wires. Ideally, you need to measure the current while you do the trials, but if you're lucky, the power will show on the LCD if it has one.

 

[GRXDYR]

They're probably in the wrong sequence then. They don't always go colour to colour. There's 36 combinations of which three will work correctly forwards and three will work backwards. All the others cause stuttering, clicking, jamming or rough running. Occasionally you get false positives, which make the wheel turn at 100 mph or turn normally but with massive current, which drains the battery in no time and melts the phase wires. Ideally, you need to measure the current while you do the trials, but if you're lucky, the power will show on the LCD if it has one.

I’ve been running them with the colours matching together for well over a month and it was working fine, if I try different sequences will it damage the kit at all getting them wrong or no?

 

[harrys]

If it used to work, it's not a wire sequencing problem. I must be lucky. I've bought five different brands of controllers and never seen a mismatch in the motor phase wire colors or the hall sensor colors.

Never owned a cheap DD motor though. I've heard that clunks happen when a magnet falls out inside those motors.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Are you absolutely sure that you didn't swap them over when testing or something? No harm will come trying different combinations as long as you don't give the motor full power when you test. the same applies now: When a motor is stuck (electrically or mechanically) you must never give it full power because that power has to go somewhere, and it will be anywhere but turning the motor. it can burn out the motor or blow the mosfets in the controller.

If your problem is not caused by the connection sequence, you have to look at what can interfere with the power and signals from the wires, such as:
Wires damaged where they come out of the motor;
Melted phase wires or connectors;
Bullet connectors not gripping. Sometimes they seem tight, but it's the plastic sleeve gripping, not the barrel.
Melted power tracks in the controller;
Blown mosfets in the controller;
Cooked hall sensors in the motor.

All those are visual checks except the halls, which you test by switching everything on, then check that you have 5v on the red and black hall wires by sticking your probes up the back of the connector. If you have the 5v, you then proceed by measuring between black and each hall coloured wire (blue, yellow and green) while you rotate the wheel. You will see the 5v going on and off while you rotate if the hall is working properly.

How did the motor stop working? Did it happen going up a hill, or was it working when you stopped and then wouldn't start, or what?

 

[GRXDYR]

Are you absolutely sure that you didn't swap them over when testing or something? No harm will come trying different combinations as long as you don't give the motor full power when you test. the same applies now: When a motor is stuck (electrically or mechanically) you must never give it full power because that power has to go somewhere, and it will be anywhere but turning the motor. it can burn out the motor or blow the mosfets in the controller.

If your problem is not caused by the connection sequence, you have to look at what can interfere with the power and signals from the wires, such as:
Wires damaged where they come out of the motor;
Melted phase wires or connectors;
Bullet connectors not gripping. Sometimes they seem tight, but it's the plastic sleeve gripping, not the barrel.
Melted power tracks in the controller;
Blown mosfets in the controller;
Cooked hall sensors in the motor.

All those are visual checks except the halls, which you test by switching everything on, then check that you have 5v on the red and black hall wires by sticking your probes up the back of the connector. If you have the 5v, you then proceed by measuring between black and each hall coloured wire (blue, yellow and green) while you rotate the wheel. You will see the 5v going on and off while you rotate if the hall is working properly.

How did the motor stop working? Did it happen going up a hill, or was it working when you stopped and then wouldn't start, or what?

Thanks for the detailed reply I appreciate it, I’m gonna go over everything and check all the connections again later today. It’s strange because I was just riding normally and I got a flat wheel, got home replaced the inner tube and then since then it hasn’t worked. I’m guessing something must have happened when I was taking the wheel off etc but I can’t figure out what. Thanks again.

 

[GRXDYR]

If it used to work, it's not a wire sequencing problem. I must be lucky. I've bought five different brands of controllers and never seen a mismatch in the motor phase wire colors or the hall sensor colors.

Never owned a cheap DD motor though. I've heard that clunks happen when a magnet falls out inside those motors.

Yeah the motors probably broken for good. They gave me all my money back though so I’m not annoyed about it just wondering if there is anyway I can fix it as it would be nice to use it. If not I’ll projabbly look at getting a better quality kit. Thanks

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Thanks for the detailed reply I appreciate it, I’m gonna go over everything and check all the connections again later today. It’s strange because I was just riding normally and I got a flat wheel, got home replaced the inner tube and then since then it hasn’t worked. I’m guessing something must have happened when I was taking the wheel off etc but I can’t figure out what. Thanks again.

You've either bust the motor wire somewhere or, more likely, not plugged in the motor connector far enough. If you completely disconnected the motor at the bullet connectors, you have them in the wrong sequence.