Bafang bbshd motor not working error code 08

[Deleted member 4366]

You can't repair the controller because it's encapsulated in rubber. tou have to buy a replacement.. I'm not sure where the water gets to. I've seen one where the rubber was cracked so water got in to the mosfets, which set the motor on fire. luckily the guy was present when it happened. the bike wasn't even being ridden. He heard the noise and saw smoke coming out of the motor, which is a bit worrying. I think more likely, the water gets into the compartment, which isn't sealed and drowns the motor connectors, so maybe a good dry out will fix it.

The mosfets pop if you try and run the motor when it has the problem. the mosfets aren't normally problematic themselves, but they suffer consequential damage when there's other problems. As a rule, you should never attempt to keep an ebike motor going if it doesn't run properly.

 

[Nealh]

I had error 12 on my BBS01 a new controller was required, the current went spaso and I ended up with vastly greater speed and torque for a while. I lost the pas but was able to soldier on for a while with some throttle.

 

[ScubaSi]

Bringing this old thread back to life.

I’ve stripped it back and removed the hall sensor board intact.

Testing the hall sensors with a magnet very rarely does anything - the output is 5v almost all the time with or without the magnet. One of them I can flip the magnet to turn it on / off. I’ll pick up some hall sensors on Monday. But until then - does that sound like they are broken?

Everything I can see online indicates that they would show 0v if broken, rather than 5v.

The motor has had about 25km of use, on road. Was not used for a year, then first ride out I thought I’d run out of battery but then got the dreaded 08 error when I was tinkering with it. Do not recall seeing the 08 error when it first broke, just noticed that I was getting no help.

I had been asking for a lot of assistance up a hill just before it broke Probably overheat?

 

[hot_spot]

Hi guys.

i have a Lombardo Valderice MTB Rear Wheel Hub motor E-Bike. i am getting the dreaded 08 error code on my LCD display screen. the rear wheel will every now and then give a bit of a jerk and make clicking sounds. do you think the Hall sensors are damaged. if so. how difficult is it to take the rear wheel hub apart.

thanks in advance guys......

 

[saneagle]

Hi guys.

i have a Lombardo Valderice MTB Rear Wheel Hub motor E-Bike. i am getting the dreaded 08 error code on my LCD display screen. the rear wheel will every now and then give a bit of a jerk and make clicking sounds. do you think the Hall sensors are damaged. if so. how difficult is it to take the rear wheel hub apart.

thanks in advance guys......

Is your motor connector in all the way to the marked line, not just in tight? Also, check at the controller end to see if the wires melted.

How did the problem start? What caused it?

 

[hot_spot]

Hi saneagle and thanks for replying to my post.
the cables are fine. i am not sure as to when the problem started as i bought the bike second hand.
i payed £335 for the bike hoping that it could be fixed. if i have to buy a new wheel. i have just found out how i may of regret buying the thing now. after looking at the price of new wheels.

 

[saneagle]

Hi saneagle and thanks for replying to my post.
the cables are fine. i am not sure as to when the problem started as i bought the bike second hand.
i payed £335 for the bike hoping that it could be fixed. if i have to buy a new wheel. i have just found out how i may of regret buying the thing now. after looking at the price of new wheels.

There are several potential causes of your problem. None of them costs much to repair, so no need for regret just yet.

First thing - the connector either reaches the line or not. which is it?
How do you know the cable is fine? Did you test it?
Did you check the cable at the controller end?

 

[hot_spot]

both cable joints at both ends look to be ok to me from what i can tell. i have a multi meter but i have not done any check yet to see if there is any brakes in the wires coming from the controller or the LCD Screen. i did look in the controller box area and noticed that the controller circuit board is covered in some kind of resin and celled in there. so that is going to be a problem testing any connectors.

 

[hot_spot]

here is some screen shots of the LCD on the bike. the main screen does stay on from time to time, but then goes off back to the error screen. when the main screen is on. if i hold down the minus button. the the bike goes in to walk mode which shows a little man under neath the bicycle symbol. then the wheel sometimes gives a bit of a jerk and clicking sounds.
i managed to come across a menu by chance if i remember. by holding the plus and the power button together for a few seconds. it is the screen shots with the letter P on it.some of them higher up have a error 22 written on them. the last screen shot with the number 32 on it. i don't now what that on is. you can change the number from 32 all the way down to 1 and back up again. there is some other menus but they are just for the clock reset your trip count. screen brightness etc.

i have know idea why the photos are showing up side ways?

 

[hot_spot]

 

[Nealh]

Error 8 is a hall sensor fault.
Error 22 is a Comms abnomality in BMS fault.
LSPD is the speed limit setting 32 is max speed in km/h.

I have not come across the P setting's for the C961 lcd before but interestingly err 22 is on all ten the P7 adv settings, the fact there are ten P7's to me indicate that they refer to the 10 cell banks /sensing wires.

It is as if they are a secret menu ?

 

[saneagle]

Logically, the LCD is looking for battery comms giving the OK to run, but your battery isn't giving it, probably because it's been replaced by the wrong type.

Charge the battery. ckeck the voltage with a meter, and if it's 42v, a new controller and LCD should fix it.

 

[Nealh]

Might help if we had some battery pics.

 

[hot_spot]

i just checked again on the buttons. it was by holding down the plus and the power button together for a few seconds. i checked the voltage on the battery earlier on today and it was giving 43v the battery is the right battery for the bike and the warranty sticker is still on it unbroken.
i built a Stealth bomber last year from scratch and the LCD Screen for that bike has a few hidden menus on it. here is a photo of my Stealth bike. i put indicators on it. a brake light on it the lot.... lol

 

[hot_spot]

Might help if we had some battery pics.

i will take some photos....

 

[hot_spot]

Might help if we had some battery pics.

some battery pics. if you need any better ones. just ask.

 

[hot_spot]

i forgot to mention that this bike has no throttle . it is peddle assist only. the censer for the peddle crank movement seems to be ok by the looks of it. as you turn the peddles a small red light keeps flashing on the censer until you stop pedaling.

 

[saneagle]

OK, there's one fault that could cause all those problems - a blown MOSFET in the controller. First is the easy test. Rotate the wheel backwards and if it's pretty hard, or very notchy, you have a blown MOSFET or there's a short on the motor wire. If it turns freely with just the coggong of the magnets, it's passed that test.

Next test you need a multimeter set to 200k. Disconnect the battery and the motor wires from the controller, then measure the resistance between the battery positive wire on the controller and each of the three motor phase wires on the controller. The three results should be the same and roughly in the range 7K to 24k. Repeat the test using the battery negative connection. Sometimes you see the result continuously climbing or falling. In that case, either take the reading quickly and the next one should carry on the climb or fall, or try reversing your probes. It does that because your meter is charging the main capacitor in the controller.

 

[hot_spot]

when the bike is powered up and you turn the wheel back words. the wheel just turns freely with no resistance to it at all.
now doing the meter test as you suggested. i only get one reading on one of the three cable ends coming from the controller. (20.0 solid) that is just from the negative battery connector. nothing from the positive.

 

[saneagle]

when the bike is powered up and you turn the wheel back words. the wheel just turns freely with no resistance to it at all.
now doing the meter test as you suggested. i only get one reading on one of the three cable ends coming from the controller. (20.0 solid) that is just from the negative battery connector. nothing from the positive.

We're getting somewhere, but I'm not sure where.

Can you clarify those resistance checks. You got 20k from each phase wire to the negative battery. Is that right? What happened with the three measurements to the positive? You can't get no reading. It's open circuit, short circuit or a measured resistance. Which is it.

Are you sure about the no resistance to the wheel turning? is it exactly the same forwards and backwards or can you feel the gears turning in the motor when you turn it backwards? Turn it slowly to feel.