Compatability of aikema motor with kunteng controller

djbarnat

Finding my (electric) wheels
Oct 14, 2015
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Hi I have this controller kt36zwsrt-lcdIMG_20170702_091713.jpg


I am looking at purchasing this motor to fit in a folding bike. Does anyone know if they will be compatible?. The connection looks the same but that is about as far as my knowledge extends.
$_1.JPG
 

Nealh

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Aug 7, 2014
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Both should be compatible.
I have the Q128C/AKM 500W hub coupled to a 36/48v KT.

Where are you getting the AKM from with 250w marking ?
 
D

Deleted member 4366

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Theonly thing you need to check is whether either are sensorless. Sensor motors are not compatible with sensor controllers. Generally, these motors don't run very well sensorless, but that controller has a P1 parameter that can help with that.

You need the LCD with that controller. It doesn't work on its own.

The label says 20" wheel, which means it's most likely the 328 rpm version. That won't work in a 700c wheel, and it's probably too fast for a 26" one unless you're light and you put in something like a road bike.
 

djbarnat

Finding my (electric) wheels
Oct 14, 2015
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Thanks folks. This will be going into a 20inch folding bike and is already set into a 20 inch wheel. Its used and seller is asking £65 for wheel and motor. He says the motor has covered about 100 miles. Do you think it's worth it?

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D

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It would cost £150 new. You decide if it's worth it.
 

djbarnat

Finding my (electric) wheels
Oct 14, 2015
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Doesn't to bad then, will give it a go, thanks !

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Woosh

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that looks like the Aikema 2.1kg 100SX motor.
Not as poweful as NealH's Q128C.
 

djbarnat

Finding my (electric) wheels
Oct 14, 2015
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Hi there I have now received this motor but I think my kt-lcd parameter needs some adjustment. I am trying to determine the correct P1 setting but I don't know how to find out the number of alnico magnets. Any pointers?

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D

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It might help if you told us which motor it is.

Is it sensored or sensorless?

What diameter is it?
 

djbarnat

Finding my (electric) wheels
Oct 14, 2015
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Does the photo I provided in my original post not give this information ? It is labelled aikema akm-13. I have no idea at all how to determine whether it sensor or sensorless.

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djbarnat

Finding my (electric) wheels
Oct 14, 2015
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Ok as best I can tell it is about 125mm diameter (4.92 inches). I also found it carries a code engraved in the motor bbz3620a. Not sure if this helps?

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Woosh

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Ok as best I can tell it is about 125mm diameter (4.92 inches). I also found it carries a code engraved in the motor bbz3620a. Not sure if this helps?

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check the motor cable. If it has 3 pins, then it's sensorless.
 

djbarnat

Finding my (electric) wheels
Oct 14, 2015
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This is what I've got. So it's a sensor motor? Everything seems run ok apart from the motor seeming a bit noisy and rough. I took it out today on a gravel path and a couple of times the front wheel lost traction and slipped and then the motor would cut out and require me to stop pedalling for a second and pedal again to get the PAS to kick in again. I thought the P1 setting may help these things


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Woosh

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that's a sensored motor. You should be OK.
 
D

Deleted member 4366

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Your have a sensored Q100 then with 20 magnets.

for 36V Q100 motors the reduction ratio is;
201 motor-8.2 to 1
260 motor-12.6 to 1
328 motor-14.2 to 1

The number of magnets is either 16 or 20 - not sure.
 

djbarnat

Finding my (electric) wheels
Oct 14, 2015
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Ok I have made an assumption that because my motor is labelled and being for a 20" wheel that my motor is the 328 rpm version and set the P1 accordingly. However, intermittently I am still getting the odd time that the motor stops immediately after I start pedelling. I have no throttle so all motor initiation is through PAS. Its a bit concerning because when I am at a road junction I don't want the motor cutting out immediately after start. When it happens the motor will not start unless I back pedal a touch and then start pedalling again, as soon as I do this the motor kicks in again fine. Any ideas what may be causing this. Should I replace the PAS sensor and magnets perhaps?

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Nealh

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The pas either works or it doesn't try checking the alignment and gap spacing also give the magnets a clean. Check the pins at the connector for a tight fit.
I have seen the Q100 in its forms with more then one quoted gear reduction depending on the version, so maybe you still need to play with P1 setting.
9:6:1 P1 154
12:6:1 P1 202
13:2:1 P1 211/212
14:2:1 P1 227
15:7:1 P1 251/252
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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If you still can't get P1 to work correctly then consider fitting a throttle if your controller has the connector, then at least you will have 100% power on tap if required.
 

djbarnat

Finding my (electric) wheels
Oct 14, 2015
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Thanks Nealh for the helpful post. Will give these settings a try tonight.

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jhruk

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May 13, 2009
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The P1 setting.

I’ve noticed several people trying to solve their rough running motor problems by changing the P1 setting on the LCD.

Nobody seems to have suggested exactly what this setting does. I had a theory so I’ve carried out a few tests with my Q85 using an external rotation sensor and a separate speed ‘computer’ to check the LCD speed against.

I tried a range of P1 settings from 50 up to 255 and detected no change in the running of the motor throughout the range.

With P2 set to 1 and the rotation sensor enabled the LCD always showed the correct speed, irrespective of the P1 setting.

With P2 set to 0 the speed was only indicated when the motor is on – it reverted to 0 on the overrun. The LCD speed varied (with respect to the correct speed) according to the P1 setting. Following the formula in the manual the correct setting for this motor is 202 and this is the setting that gave the correct speed readout. Below 202 the speed readout was too high and above this it was too low.

With P1 set to 50 and P2 to 0 the speed limiter came into play and the motor would not exceed an indicated 72kph (actual speed 11mph at P1=50), which is the maximum speed you can set in the general settings. Interestingly when P2 was set to 1 no speed was displayed although the limiter still operated.

My conclusion is that the P1 setting has nothing to do with the running of the motor but is solely to enable the LCD to determine road speed from motor speed when not using the rotation sensor.

Another observation was that with P2 set to 1 and the rotation sensor disabled the display initially showed 0mph and then, after a while, started displaying the computed speed.

Any other suggestions?