Woosh Going headless

[chris667]

Hello

I continue to be delighted with my Woosh DWG rear hub on my fairly generic mountain bike.

I'd like to look at ways of running it without the LCD. I don't need to know how fast I'm going, and if the battery dies I can just ride home under my own steam. I don't really need to choose between assist levels - it doesn't matter if the throttle feels on/off - taking myself right up to top speed often feels safer than wobbling around at low speed.

I really like the idea that with the rack battery and a throwover type pannier, it doesn't look like an ebike at all. At the minute, the big LCD on the handlebars is a giveaway and the thing that makes people stop and look at (actually, someone has tried to take it off the bike, although they changed their mind when they realised I was stood 20 yards away from it!).

 

[saneagle]

For most bikes with a controller and LCD like that, you can run without the LCD. In that case, the controller should default to level 1 pedal assist, and the throttle should work normally. There are many versions of controllers , each with different software versions, so it's not guaranteed, but there's a high probability that it will work.

All you have to do is disconnect the LCD and bridge/join the red and blue wires or the pins in the connector joined to them. If you have block connectors, you can see the colours of the wires,so it's easy. If you have waterproof connectors, you have to open the controller to get to the ends of those wires, then you can use a meter on continuity to figure out which pin in the connector is connected to those wires, or you can use Google to find a diagram, though I'd prefer to be certain by testing. The red wire/pin will have battery voltage on it, so you can find that easily with a meter, but that won't work for the blue one. Occasionally, the blue wire can be pink or arange - if you know what I mean. That can be confirmed by looking inside the controller. It'll be soldered near to the big resistor and often marked VCC.

 

[Woosh]

All you have to do is disconnect the LCD and bridge/join the red and blue wires or the pins in the connector joined to them.

it's all waterproof cabling. The simplest solution is to ask Andy to supply a 5-pin extension lead. Cut the plug off and strip the wires. Check with a multitester before joining the on/off wires.