Hall sensor connection

[UrbanPuma]

UPDATE:

Hi all, I have some success! I've just connected the wires using temporary connectors (crocodile clips and connector block) with all colours matching - and the error code has vanished for both throttle and pas (tested holding the down button on lcd) yay

I'm assuming the hall sensor wires were not connected properly. You've all helped so much - we're getting there

Still no movement from the motor, so should I start swapping the wires to find the right combinations or do I need to go back into display settings to get the bike working?

Pics attached of temporary connection and display without error code.

 

[Nealh]

We need to see the P 4 setting & C 1, C4 & C11 settings as the throttle may be deactivated, also C1 setting to see if PAS value is correct.

 

[AGS]

Yep. Your error 03 was always a bad hall sensor connection.

 

[UrbanPuma]

We need to see the P 4 setting & C 1, C4 & C11 settings as the throttle may be deactivated, also C1 setting to see if PAS value is correct.

Settings are as follows, Nealh:

P4 = 0
C1 = 00
C4 = 0
C11 = 0

I just tested the phase wires and the only wire swap that showed any change in motor output on the 1st display was wire sequence: yellow + yellow, green + blue, blue + green. The motor w number increased from 0 - 21 depending on movement from throttle. The other five phase wire tests resulted in 0 output from motor.

 

[Nealh]

C4/0 is zero on star up or non operational.
C4 try value 2.
C4/1 = 6km/h.

I don't recall how many poles your magent disc has so try C1/01 or 02.

 

[AntonyC]

Just checking... Wouldn't walk assist help to get it working regardless of PAS and throttle settings or connections, even with PAS level 0? Or does it already respond to walk assist? I assume brake sensors are never NC are they?

 

[UrbanPuma]

C4/0 is zero on star up or non operational.
C4 try value 2.
C4/1 = 6km/h.

I don't recall how many poles your magnet disc has so try C1/01 or 02.

Ok, I set C4 to 2 as instructed and motor output is displayed on twist of throttle.

C1 was set to 00 due to 5 silver magnets.I tried 00, 01 and 02 and got same result - motor shows output on display, slight twitch and noise, but still no wheel spin yet. This is with all wires matching colours.

What shall I do now?

 

[UrbanPuma]

Just checking... Wouldn't walk assist help to get it working regardless of PAS and throttle settings or connections, even with PAS level 0? Or does it already respond to walk assist? I assume brake sensors are never NC are they?

Sorry I was using the wrong terminology, I've only been testing with throttle and walk-assist Antony. No, brake sensors are not plugged in. I'm going to loosen the normal brake cable, just in case pads are touching as they are close to the rim.

 

[AntonyC]

When the wheel has twitched does the power display frame flash (p12 of the manual)?
Both the battery and the halls seemed to be flaky connection issues, not ideal for your 3 wires x 36 permutations tests.

Also, my left brake sensor (to the motor) doesn't work.

If both brake levers act one way in one controller connector and another way in the other you could return your new controller.... I'll get my hat.

 

[Nealh]

This is turning into a saga , time to try the 36 wire combos to see if you can find one that works.

 

[UrbanPuma]

When the wheel has twitched does the power display frame flash (p12 of the manual)?
Both the battery and the halls seemed to be flaky connection issues, not ideal for your 3 wires x 36 permutations tests.

If both brake levers act one way in one controller connector and another way in the other you could return your new controller.... I'll get my hat.

I'm not sure what p12 is, Antony. I checked manual and don't see it; do you mean c12 voltage? Definitely agree with the connection issues.

The brake lever was faulty as confirmed by tester, so I bought new ones which work fine and fitted them.

 

[UrbanPuma]

This is turning into a saga , time to try the 36 wire combos to see if you can find one that works.

Yes, halls wires keep loosing connection hence 03 error. I've started the 36 combination test and will report back once complete - hoping for the best, fingers crossed. Cheers.

 

[esuark]

 

[AGS]

You should also look at the watts on your display when trying out the combinations.

This will do two things.

Firstly it will ensure that you don’t damage your controller or motor when doing the tests and secondly you will know that your controller is actually trying to drive the motor, so your not wasting your time trying out different combinations if you still have a wiring or settings fault.

When you have the correct combination the power should be less than 150 watts at full throttle with the motor spinning flat out unloaded.

 

[UrbanPuma]

You should also look at the watts on your display when trying out the combinations.

This will do two things.

Firstly it will ensure that you don’t damage your controller or motor when doing the tests and secondly you will know that your controller is actually trying to drive the motor, so your not wasting your time trying out different combinations if you still have a wiring or settings fault.

When you have the correct combination the power should be less than 150 watts at full throttle with the motor spinning flat out unloaded.

I'll keep a close eye on the watts. Thanks AGS.

 

[guerney]

Some guys like to make things difficult for themselves.

If anybody doesn't like bullet connectors, cut them off and solder the wires. I can't understand why anybody would want to go to the expense and effort to fit new connectors when the work to do that is more than the work to solder the wires together, the cost is higher and the result is less reliable.

I'm glad I took your advice and soldered rather than use bullet connectors - removes all doubt. Even manufacturers get crimping wrong. These sleeves melted:

 

[UrbanPuma]

SUCCESS!

Hi all,

It has been a while, but just wanted to update you on what happened. I ended up getting a different kit fitted, the S866 display and controller and the bike works fine now.

Now I have new connectors on the bike I will try the KT hall sensor combinations again at a later date to see if I can get it working, but as of now, I have my ebike working

Thanks to everyone who helped, and for those with the popcorn - hope you enjoyed
:-D

Here's to a great summer ebiking.