I bought a Hase Kettwiesel second-hand which is an aluminium version 2009 or later. There is a user manual pdf on the Hase website. I wanted to convert to electric because of my age and medical conditions. I initially thought about a front hub motor because – the weight would be useful at the front (Kettwiesel is a recumbent trike driven on right wheel only), and it looked simpler to do. I am grateful for comments on this forum that brought me to choose the TSDZ2 Mid Drive and a picture from Wooshbikes showing a Bafang motor on a Kettwiesel (showing a steering rod modification). Two articles helped me choose the TSDZ2 over the BBS02 - tsdz2-vs-bbs02 and empoweredpeople/experimenting-with-tsdz2-mid-drive . I got hugely diverted by all the possibilities of programming the TSDZ2, but eventually decided not to do it. Sourcing the TSDZ2 - Wooshbikes or your own research – my intention was an amateur install.
Install (steering) – the photo of the BBS01 on a Kettwiesel showed the need to relocate the steering rod above the bottom bracket – first attempt was to lengthen the bolt through the universal joint and use spacers to raise the height by about 90mm – result fail – I got the clearance but there was too much flex and the front bracket on the headstock would eventually fail. Second successful method – purchase aluminium tube 16mm x 1.5mm x 2m (ebay metalshop) and bend it with a Silverline tube bender (we bought 3 lengths of tube and had several practice attempts). Method – measure clearance needed above bottom bracket and front/rear clearance needed. Make the bends nearer to 45 degrees than 90, cut off both ends to a finished length to match original – this results in the first bend being as close as possible to the headstock end. We made a threaded aluminium insert as an interference fit to the tube and hammered it home.
Uninstall (bottom bracket and cranks) – we had read about needing a crank puller, and then made every numpty mistake using it that a first-time user does. The threaded end of the crank puller had a removable end cap which was bigger than the size of the square taper bit being pushed out and we stripped the thread on the crank. Once we got the cranks off, we found that the ring spanner for the bottom bracket in the TSDZ2 kit had 8 lugs and the Kettwiesel had 6 – suitable spanner not available at Halfords or local bike shop so used a made-up solution with a plate and 3 small bolts. Result – everything removed, but old bottom bracket and crank would have to be replaced if reassembled.
Install (TSDZ2 motor) – the manual states that a bottom bracket size range of 68-72mm is needed to install the motor – the Kettwiesel is slightly different to this and it was necessary to make the 2 x thick aluminium washers on the motor, 3mm thicker for the install to fit. There is a stabiliser bracket on the motor designed for an ordinary bike – we intend to use a strap going over the 48mm trike frame tube, a longer bolt and a round spacer on the bolt (not yet done).
Install (Hailong Battery MK1) – intention is to use square aluminium tube with plastic stop ends, jubilee clipped to the trike frame tube just behind the headstock – it is fair to say this is a compromise solution as battery on off button position is not ideal.
Install (Peripherals) – space is at a premium on the trike and some positions are compromises. The two handlebars on the under-seat steering come off to fit the replacement brake levers, with the electronic switches that cut off the motor when you apply the brake (some people online complain about the quality, but they seemed fine to me). We fitted the thumb throttle below the handgrip on the right handlebar, with the brake lever below it. We decided not to fit the optional remote control (you can do everything off the display). We fitted the display on the left handlebar, under left thigh – not ideal to read or adjust.
So far, all done in a single (long) day, with copious assistance from my brother (who has a lathe and other tools). Problems/not done yet – cable lengths from right brake lever to display are too short and will need extending, cable from speed sensor on front wheel is too short and will need extending (this will be a problem with connectors/internal wiring), cable management/ties generally, fitting the battery, making a motor stabiliser strap and spacer block, tightening everything up, adjusting brakes, steering, gears. We have done an electrical check, but not an overall usability check. Pictures will be provided showing final installation.
Install (steering) – the photo of the BBS01 on a Kettwiesel showed the need to relocate the steering rod above the bottom bracket – first attempt was to lengthen the bolt through the universal joint and use spacers to raise the height by about 90mm – result fail – I got the clearance but there was too much flex and the front bracket on the headstock would eventually fail. Second successful method – purchase aluminium tube 16mm x 1.5mm x 2m (ebay metalshop) and bend it with a Silverline tube bender (we bought 3 lengths of tube and had several practice attempts). Method – measure clearance needed above bottom bracket and front/rear clearance needed. Make the bends nearer to 45 degrees than 90, cut off both ends to a finished length to match original – this results in the first bend being as close as possible to the headstock end. We made a threaded aluminium insert as an interference fit to the tube and hammered it home.
Uninstall (bottom bracket and cranks) – we had read about needing a crank puller, and then made every numpty mistake using it that a first-time user does. The threaded end of the crank puller had a removable end cap which was bigger than the size of the square taper bit being pushed out and we stripped the thread on the crank. Once we got the cranks off, we found that the ring spanner for the bottom bracket in the TSDZ2 kit had 8 lugs and the Kettwiesel had 6 – suitable spanner not available at Halfords or local bike shop so used a made-up solution with a plate and 3 small bolts. Result – everything removed, but old bottom bracket and crank would have to be replaced if reassembled.
Install (TSDZ2 motor) – the manual states that a bottom bracket size range of 68-72mm is needed to install the motor – the Kettwiesel is slightly different to this and it was necessary to make the 2 x thick aluminium washers on the motor, 3mm thicker for the install to fit. There is a stabiliser bracket on the motor designed for an ordinary bike – we intend to use a strap going over the 48mm trike frame tube, a longer bolt and a round spacer on the bolt (not yet done).
Install (Hailong Battery MK1) – intention is to use square aluminium tube with plastic stop ends, jubilee clipped to the trike frame tube just behind the headstock – it is fair to say this is a compromise solution as battery on off button position is not ideal.
Install (Peripherals) – space is at a premium on the trike and some positions are compromises. The two handlebars on the under-seat steering come off to fit the replacement brake levers, with the electronic switches that cut off the motor when you apply the brake (some people online complain about the quality, but they seemed fine to me). We fitted the thumb throttle below the handgrip on the right handlebar, with the brake lever below it. We decided not to fit the optional remote control (you can do everything off the display). We fitted the display on the left handlebar, under left thigh – not ideal to read or adjust.
So far, all done in a single (long) day, with copious assistance from my brother (who has a lathe and other tools). Problems/not done yet – cable lengths from right brake lever to display are too short and will need extending, cable from speed sensor on front wheel is too short and will need extending (this will be a problem with connectors/internal wiring), cable management/ties generally, fitting the battery, making a motor stabiliser strap and spacer block, tightening everything up, adjusting brakes, steering, gears. We have done an electrical check, but not an overall usability check. Pictures will be provided showing final installation.