Hoping to increase driver passing distance at night, I've glued front and rear reflectors to my wing mirrors.

guerney

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I've ordered the two adapters above, and when those arrive, the light @Nealh linked in post #146 will have arrived - I'll try strapping that to the Oxford lollipop arm (could be light enough), extending sideways from the handlebar end to the right - that should wake up sleep-driving taxi drivers, who would have to stop and read or book or something to nod off again, and resume driving blind.
 
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guerney

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Watch the machining accuracy on some of these mounts. Fine for low cost lights, not a good fit always for the GoPro camera mounting prongs. If too loose, overtightening the screw can damage the camera bits.
Yes, I've noticed that with a chest mount I have - measurements not quite right, easy to damage the ABS of the camera cage while getting the bolt through... so I've added a second piece which is better machined.


And in your picture of many bits, @guerney, be cautious of the non GoPro mounting bases with the slotty holes....they break as there is very little plastic in the critical areas at the corners. Genuine GoPro bases are in my view worth it for the expensive camera!
GoPro do make them well, and mine has an integral lanyard, in case the joint breaks. I was temped by this chin-mount upgrade, but it's 50 freaking quid! Expensive, for an overgrown clothes peg...





 
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guerney

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I would like some method of avoiding close passes.
My best thought is some type of thin flag pole say 1.5m long mounted on the handlebar at the right.
when on roads I would lower it with say a pennant /light so vehicles would stay that distance away
But when approaching a line of traffic I could raise it vertically so I could over/under take just using the width of my bike
I know I want the best of both worlds - width on flowing roads & narrowness in traffic.
Any ideas for the swivel joint, as I can use torch brackets to attach that to the handlebar and use a fibre glass electricians pole for threading cable, as its nice & thin.
Would projections of only up to 400mm beyond the handlebar end be legal? I'm wondering what the reaction of the Poluce would be, if extra long alloy GoPro 16cm or 20cm arms were joined together, attached to the end bar alloy GoPro mounting point, and attached to the Oxford lollipop? Quality bolts and nuts used instead of threads in the mounts and the usual GoPro type bolts, tightened to hell, could make that more secure.

I'll set my Oxford lollipop to less than 400mm beyond the handlebar end, as @WheezyRider did, and see how I get on...


 

guerney

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Genuine GoPro bases are in my view worth it for the expensive camera!
I think the ones made using ABS are generally pretty good - the extension arm which was packaged with my GPS tracker light is noticeably better made, very solid, in contrast to the brittle plastic used on the Crosstour 4k's. The chest mount is ABS but they've screwed up the measurements infinitesimally. The one on my helmet's chin is also ABS, and has withstood a couple of faceplants into tarmac - however, one of the prongs of the Crosstour's acrylic/perspex case broke with the second faceplant (fixed with superglue + baking soda, which has resulted in a stronger prong). It's wise to secure it used a failsafe lanyard or ziptie , whatever the mount. As cameras go, the GoPro Hero 7 Black isn't expensive, and it's there to do a job. Initially, I'm always precious about new cameras, but after awhile this is forgotten and they start making me money... they break, get damaged, repaired... it's all par for the course. I doubt this GoPro will be of any use on the money making pront however, it's likely just going to be used as a cycling flight recorder - my other cameras do a far better job of videography and photography. For a small project where it's awkward to use a larger camera, I'm about to order a 52mm filter adapter (it fits over the lens cover), so I can use ND and other filters from my other cameras on the GoPro, to achieve the level of motion blur we're used to seeing on-screen, remove reflections etc. I'm tempted to get a gimbal, but might not need one.
 

guerney

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guerney

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I have two of these which are super bright even on lowest bright mode.
Rechargeable Rear Bike Lights Back Bicycle Light Set LED Front USB Waterproof UK | eBay
That light arrived today - yes it looks pretty good.

1. It's lightweight - handy for possibly mounting to the Oxford side reflecting lollipop arm.

2. The mount has a tilt function, which can be locked with a screw.

3. The mounting point at the back of the light is conveniently flat, which should make it easy to glue permanently to the Oxford lollipop arm, using superglue + baking soda, if required. However, I may get away with using some self-amalgamating rubber tape wound around the arm to increase the arm's diameter a bit, and using the mounting strap provided.

4. It looks bright.

5. Has a wide light dispersion.

6. Can be mounted vertically or horizontally, depending on which way you attach the mounting point to the mounting strap.

7. The light locks into the mounting strap, has a release lever.

I'm not entirely certain that the plastic 90-degree angle changer block will be up to the task of holding the weight of the lollipop plus light bouncing about (not ABS, hasn't arrived yet), if not, I could bolt the Oxford lollipop to an alloy straight orientation changer instead. Alternatively, I could use an alloy arm with a ball joint, which might actually be the better option for handlebar-end use.


50087
 
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guerney

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Because this new red light isn't feather-light, I've talked myself into ordering this CNC alloy arm containing a ball joint to hold the light + Oxford lollipop arm, which will also be useful for other GoPro projects:


 
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MikelBikel

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Brighter 8 LED GoPro mounted torches, could be attached to handle-bar end mounts. Larger and more robust flat GoPro mounts, are available on AliExpress.




Even 2x 3500mah 18650 (18mm x 65mm) cells only give it 7000mah. Is it using those 5000mah 21700 cells? Or has it got 4x 2500 crammed in 40mm x 40mm x 80+mm maybe? :)
 

guerney

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Even 2x 3500mah 18650 (18mm x 65mm) cells only give it 7000mah. Is it using those 5000mah 21700 cells? Or has it got 4x 2500 crammed in 40mm x 40mm x 80+mm maybe? :)
Probably cobblers - it's on AliExpress... rather like the quoted lumens of many such lights. Still, not a bad price if only approaching 7000mah capacity with 8 LEDs, if each is as bright as those on the Planet X light. While walking, I spotted a lycra clad cyclist zooming along the dark road a couple of hours ago: hi-viz blouson, helmet, bright rear light but no headlight. He hadn't run out of battery - no headlight was present on the handlebar or fork. Yelling "THIS!!! IS!!! SPAAARTAAARGHHH!!!!" would have knocked him off, so I didn't.
 
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WheezyRider

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Would projections of only up to 400mm beyond the handlebar end be legal? I'm wondering what the reaction of the Poluce would be, if extra long alloy GoPro 16cm or 20cm arms were joined together, attached to the end bar alloy GoPro mounting point, and attached to the Oxford lollipop? Quality bolts and nuts used instead of threads in the mounts and the usual GoPro type bolts, tightened to hell, could make that more secure.

I'll set my Oxford lollipop to less than 400mm beyond the handlebar end, as @WheezyRider did, and see how I get on...



I think you can have projections beyond 400 mm, but you have to have a warning triangle fitted to the end of the projection. I read some regulation about this a while ago but typically, I can't find it now. When I did my experiments, even 390 mm beyond the end of the handlebars seemed huge and longer than that looked ridiculous :) There is also the problem of increased leverage on the hinge as the arm gets longer, so there is more of a tendency for the wind to bend it backwards as you ride.

However, I think these rules are based on loads. If the projection is part of the vehicle, I don't think it applies. On the other hand, there are rules about projections as part of vehicles that are a potential hazard to pedestrians (eg agricultural vehicles), then again, i don't think these apply directly to bicycles, although there is the general understanding that all vehicles on the road must not be fitted with spikes etc which could be hazardous.

Someone needs to find an expert to trawl through the regs...


Which was then amended in 1988 and 2009.

I think so long as you don't go mad and have it too long, or have something that cannot hinge harmlessly on impact or is made from materials or shapes that have the potential to cause harm, you should be fine.

After some horrendous close passes, @matthewslack put a foam tube approx 400 mm on the side of his solar trailer. He was stopped by the police as someone complained, but the plod were not bothered by it.
 
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matthewslack

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...and very well it worked, too!

If I was doing something similar without a trailer, I would mount a rigid bar across the back of my rack same width as handlebars, so 650 to 700mm, and then a 400mm foam extension on the offside only. All brightly coloured, reflective, and with a rear light at the end of the rigid bit. Also a good place for a camera mount.
 
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WheezyRider

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...and very well it worked, too!

If I was doing something similar without a trailer, I would mount a rigid bar across the back of my rack same width as handlebars, so 650 to 700mm, and then a 400mm foam extension on the offside only. All brightly coloured, reflective, and with a rear light at the end of the rigid bit. Also a good place for a camera mount.

The thing is when you want to filter through traffic, it needs to fold. That's why I added the hinge and put it in front, connected to the steering stem.

Another thing to bear in mind is that drivers tend to cut in quickly once they have passed the widest part of the bike, so if it is on the back, they cut in again closer to your body than if the widest part is nearer the front.
 
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matthewslack

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The thing is when you want to filter through traffic, it needs to fold. That's why I added the hinge and put it in front, connected to the steering stem.

Another thing to bear in mind is that drivers tend to cut in quickly once they have passed the widest part of the bike, so if it is on the back, they cut in again closer to your body than if the widest part is nearer the front.
I keep forgetting the urban angle! Not something I have to deal with very often!

IMG_20220606_151047264.jpg
 

guerney

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Another thing to bear in mind is that drivers tend to cut in quickly once they have passed the widest part of the bike, so if it is on the back, they cut in again closer to your body than if the widest part is nearer the front.
Totally agree with you there - the goulish fiends will take every inch they can get!


Someone needs to find an expert to trawl through the regs...

Which was then amended in 1988 and 2009.
Thank you, I'll have a good squinty read through that - could I be charged with carrying an illegal sidearm? Cops are a law unto themselves... would they throw me and my bike into slammers, to seek clarification from their own expert?


The thing is when you want to filter through traffic, it needs to fold. That's why I added the hinge and put it in front, connected to the steering stem.
The Oxford lollipop will do that - it'll fold fowards (or backwards, or both, depending on where and how it's mounted), which may come in handy at roundabouts, adding side visibility.


After some horrendous close passes, @matthewslack put a foam tube approx 400 mm on the side of his solar trailer. He was stopped by the police as someone complained, but the plod were not bothered by it.

Close passes from behind like that happen all the time, but this only becomes apparent when one uses a rear facing camera, which is one reason why I have avoided doing so until recently. I utilise @matthewslack 's excellent GuerniCar Deflectors when hauling pumpkins - they work very well indeed:


50113



... I considered using one at the front, but I also wanted to mount a light, (drivers do seem to respond to very bright lights at night, as evidenced by my fsckoff bright red flashing rear light) but in order to do this, a stiffer non-damaging material was required, which would swivel away upon impact with obstacles: The Oxford lollipop side arm seems to fit the bill. The plastic angle changer has arrived:


50114



Which could be used to host one of @matthewslack 's lightweight GuerniCar Deflectors. Of course, the second mounting point on the alloy dual mount, is for the Planet X light.


50115


There is also the problem of increased leverage on the hinge as the arm gets longer, so there is more of a tendency for the wind to bend it backwards as you ride.
Yes, long lengths of pipe lagging would bend in the wind, and it seems cops would object less vociferously to that, compared to the din if I had a Oxford lollipop sticking out up to 39cm beyond my handlebar end.

The alloy arm with a ball joint should arrive in a couple of days, I'll assemble the (somewhat heavier) all-alloy + Oxford lollipop + bright red constant running light version, and start to decide whether I want to risk cops bludgeoning me with telephone directories in a small room (phonebooks don't leave bruises).
 
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guerney

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The thing is when you want to filter through traffic, it needs to fold. That's why I added the hinge and put it in front, connected to the steering stem.

Another thing to bear in mind is that drivers tend to cut in quickly once they have passed the widest part of the bike, so if it is on the back, they cut in again closer to your body than if the widest part is nearer the front.
You've been using your cool 3D printed sidearm for awhile - have cops harassed you?
 
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guerney

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I keep forgetting the urban angle! Not something I have to deal with very often!

View attachment 50111

Lovely scenery... but there are cons too: Fewer witnesses, also drivers driving along winding unlit country lane at night, sometimes do so cutting bends at ludicrously fast speeds, assuming that they will see bright lights of approaching vehicles reflected by foliage and road furniture ahead of bends - and for that reason very bright bike headlights are necessary: They must be at least as bright as one car headlight. While I was cycling along unlit country lanes a couple of weeks ago, I noticed that my fsckoff bright rear red flashing light also had the same effect - I could hear cars slowing down substantially ahead of bends behind me, as they saw the hedgerow in front flashing red, to pass much slower than usual.
 
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guerney

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guerney

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The extension mounting arm with the ball joint hasn't yet arrived. Here's the all alloy version - bolt 1 can be slackened off to swivel the Oxford lollipop/pool noodle/pipe lagging down, and bolt 2 can be kept loose enough to yield on impacts, and turn forwards or backwards as required when filtering through traffic etc. A few handle-less hex bolts arrived with alloy extenstion mounts, and the green thing is a "Helping hands" soldering aid hand. Unlike tight bolts through plastic, when sufficiently tightened through alloy, arms will not move easily. Bolts 1 & 2 can bolt through pipe lagging (also secured to the arm using zipties), to stop that blowing away - the pipe lagging at the bolt through points can be reinforced a bit with gaffa tape, to prevent ripping.


50133
 
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