New Super Light Tongxin Motor Design/Kit

[jerrysimon]

Strange ?

Are you using the motor with built in controller or the separate controller like mine ?

I initially had loads of problems with the sensor in terms of positioning it correctly, first on the crank side then the other then underneath the BB then on top. Sometimes it only worked if I pedalled backwards!

I then had further problems when I lengthened the sensor wire lead..

Again all the details are in my build threads.

Regards

Jerry

 

[jackhandy]

Daft suggestion, I know, but have you tried back-pedalling?

My sensor was foreside-back, first time of trying

 

[piotrmacheta]

Thanks all but I've now managed to sort this. I realized that I could try the pedal sensor from my other kit and behold it works. So the sensor was faulty. Going to fit it all properly and give you a full appraisal and build notes. Thanks for all the help and particularly Jerry for putting me onto this little hub and for all the great build info and pics.

 

[jerrysimon]

Seems they have updated this kit now with a new step change power unit.



If this does indeed take power assistance from off to full power then I can see it would be a good addition. I have asked for more details about both this and the trip computer. As per before these only work with the larger 100mm motors that have the controller built into the motor. Although you can get the smaller 80mm wide motors for folders/small wheeled bikes they require the use of a separate controller.

I note keyde also now do a rear motor.

Just found more details about the trip computer

-THE REMAINING BATTERY DISPLAY

-POWER RATIO ADJUSTMENT

-SPD(current speed)

-ODO(odo meter)

-DST(trip distance)

-MAX(maximum speed)

-TM(elapsed time)

-"+""-"COMPARATOR

-AVS(average speed)

-SETTING SPEED SCALE(Km/h,m/h)

-SETTING TYPE CIRCUMFERENCE

-SETTING THE LASTVALUE OF THE ODOMETER

-FREEZE FRAME MEMORY

-CLK (clock)12H/24H

-AUTO ON/OFF

-SCAN

-MAINTENANCE
Regards

Jerry

 

[fa001313]

I have a rear model on order from Keyde. Including the new led unit.
So I let you guys now how it works when I receive the unit (in about 2 weeks I hope)

Keyde also confirmed me that the rear motor can take my SRAM 10-speed cassette.
Really hope this turns out to be true.

 

[fa001313]

Finally receiced my rear hub from Keyde. Looks good but she's now with my local lbs to get spokes and a rim. It's the model with the build-in controller at 235rpm (although it went to 295 rpm on the motor test chart I received from Keyde) .

I would like to use a system much like the original cytronex bikes... A push-button to enable the motor. A cut-out brake to switch it off. Any ideas if this is possible?

 

[jerrysimon]

I would like to use a system much like the original cytronex bikes... A push-button to enable the motor. A cut-out brake to switch it off. Any ideas if this is possible?

That is exactly what I have here. A simple switch wired into the single cutout brake circuit.

The biggest challenge you will have is getting the pedelec sensor correctly fitted and connected up to work optimally.

Jerry

 

[fa001313]

With the rear hub model there is apparently no need for a pedelec sensor. The speed sensor is build in inside the hub. No idea how this works (but i hope it does).

Jerry, do you also have the model with built in controller? How did you add your cutout brake?

That is exactly what I have here. A simple switch wired into the single cutout brake circuit.

The biggest challenge you will have is getting the pedelec sensor correctly fitted and connected up to work optimally.

Jerry

 

[jerrysimon]

Sounds interesting. Not having to fit a pedelec senor is a big plus.

Both my motors are the narrower 80mm front motors which only come with external controllers.

With the built in controller is there not a cutout brake set of pins on the connector ? Do you have a picture of the motor/wire and connector coming out of it.

Jerry

 

[fa001313]

My motor is at the bike shop so i can't take pictures (yet).
But I got the following reply from Keyde:

We are developing to add the cable to connect with the brake lever, but I'm not very sure that you can add it by yourself, cause the cable we offered to you is fixed.

So i'm afraid i won't be able to add a cut-out brake or on/off switch...

 

[jerrysimon]

Bummer. I am surprised they don't include a cutout brake especially with pedelec which tends to run on slightly after you stop pedaling.

In terms of an on off switch I guess you could break into the power lead and add a switch. All you need is to get access to the positive wire and run a single cable up to a switch (of suitable current capacity) and back again which you then switch on and off at will. A bit of a kludge as the wire will be thicker than a normal brake cutout wire as its carrying the main current (not more than about 9-10 amps peak), but it should work. You would need to try it and see. I know on mine with the stock controller it arms the controller (a bleep sound) when you first switch power on.

So the lead from the motor just has two pins positive red and negative black wires ?

Regards

Jerry

 

[fa001313]

You mean the cable running to the battery? Yes, that has just two pins. One red and one black.

So for the switch I just split the red cable? One end keeps running to the battery and the other one to my handlebar with an on off button. Is this correct?
Isn't it harmful for the motor and/or controller such a hard power reset?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

If you want to switch the main power, you'd be much better using MOSFETs to do the switching. They allow you to use any small switch and thin wires to activate them. Jeremy Harris published a schematic. I use these switches on all my bikes. On yours, you only need two MOSFETs instead of four because of the much lower current.

You can get the MOSFETs from Ebay, and the rest of the bits from Maplin

 

[fa001313]

Thanks for the help guys.
I'm afraid d8veh's solution although elegant is a bit to difficult me...
So i'm going with Jerry's solution. The thicker wire is no problem and I was hoping a switch like this can handle enough DC and amps (it can handle 250V AC and 15A so I guess that's enough for my battery of 36V and 15amps).

I have drop bars so I could put the switch partly inside my brake hoods. So this won't be obstruvise, yet easy to reach.

 

[jerrysimon]

I am sure someone would help you ?

That solution is far more elegant as you say than what I proposed.

Jerry

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Thanks for the help guys.
I'm afraid d8veh's solution although elegant is a bit to difficult me...
So i'm going with Jerry's solution. The thicker wire is no problem and I was hoping a switch like this can handle enough DC and amps (it can handle 250V AC and 15A so I guess that's enough for my battery of 36V and 15amps).

I have drop bars so I could put the switch partly inside my brake hoods. So this won't be obstruvise, yet easy to reach.

The problem with normal switches is the huge current that flows initially to charge up the capacitors in the controller. You get a big spark that erodes the contacts in no time. If you want to use a normal switch, you need a serious one like this:
BATTERY ISOLATOR CUT OFF POWER SWITCH | eBay

 

[jerrysimon]

Dave,

In these low current setups I do not think that is necessary. Although I do get a small spark if I plug the battery in when I forget to turn the switch is off, I have used the same Maplin 10amp 230v switch for over three years everyday with no problem.

10A Toggle Switches : Toggle Switches : Maplin Electronics

I did actually take it apart as I was concerned as you state that over time it would have eroded contacts, only to find it was in perfect condition

The main advantage with Jeremy's solution is that there is no need to run a thicker wire.

Regards

Jerry

 

[Deleted member 4366]

It should be OK then, but as a precaution, I'd put a male and female bullet connector either side, so if it gives problems, you can disconnect it and join the wires directly.

 

[fa001313]

Finally got my Keyde rear motor installed (although I still need to fine tune everything a bit). I definitely need an easy to reach on/off switch.

I was thinking: the led controller gives me the option to control the motor speed from 0 (motor off) to 5 (full power). Wont I be able to add the switch before the led controller? (when I disconnect the cable I get full power)

 

[dingrpdl]

Finally got my Keyde rear motor installed (although I still need to fine tune everything a bit). I definitely need an easy to reach on/off switch.

I was thinking: the led controller gives me the option to control the motor speed from 0 (motor off) to 5 (full power). Wont I be able to add the switch before the led controller? (when I disconnect the cable I get full power)

View attachment 5621

So just to be clear: This Keyde motor has the controller built in and does not require the installation of a pedelec sensor. And the only connections from the hub are to the battery and the speed/assist selector. Is this right?

Is the wiring complete and the bicycle operational now?

I am now planning a second build with stealth as the primary consideration.

Richard