S06S Controller Parameters

I would like to run the S06S controller without the LCD3 display.

 

Do the parameters ,(P1,P,C1 etc), you set get saved to the controller so can be run without or is it reliant on the LCD3 being plugged in?

The settings I believe are saved as I use a lcd3 to make settings change on my town/commute bike then use a basic lcd 2 for basic data reading. Lcd1 or 2 only allow for P and don't allow C parameter changes.

The only issue is you will loose the benefit of the 5 pas levels, though think with C3 you can set a default pas level for start up.

There is no harm in trying though I think you will need to loop some of the Lcd wiring for things to work.

d8veh is the knowledgeable one on that one, he has posted several times somewhere on here how to go about it.

You can get all sorts of problems running without the LCD. Get the bluetooth dongle if you don't want the LCD on the handlebars. I don't think it makes sense to run a S06S without an LCD. There's much cheaper controllers if you want throttle only.

Or put the LCD in the controller bag. How are you going to change assist levels?

Thanks for your response guys. In terms of the assist levels, I thought that the S06s "torque simulation" would function close to a real torque sensor so I just leave it set at 5 - I have a tdsz2 and I just leave it at one setting and my legs decide how quick I want to ride.

 

From what I've tried, I've programmed it with the lcd3 and then just plugged in the jumper. Sometimes I get a perfectly smooth ride and expected response from the pas. Other times it seems like a delayed response and a on and off feel when trying to hold consistent speed which might be the issues that d8veh is talking about. It seems intermittent.

 

I am not currently using a bag so the only place would be the handle bars. I might give the bluetooth module a go - can someone link me to one please.

 

My Setup is

- Old Dawes Kingpin PAS only setup

- 24v Q100 328rpm (8.2:1 ratio?)

-S06S frankenstien modded 20amp ish (shunt, beefier wiring, fet upgrades)

- 24v 7s lipo (30A)

- KT-V12L Pas

- 21mph

 

P1 - 131

P2 - 1

P3 - 5

p4 - 0

P5 - 11

C1 - 00

C2 - 0

C3 - 5

C4 - 0

C5 - 10

Edited January 3, 20188 yr by franmav4

The on/off feel might be because the controller defaults to a different speed limit without the LCD. One of the complaints from running without the LCD was lower speed.

 

Torque simulation just means current control. Each level of PAS gives a different fixed current (power), so if you fixed level 5, you'd get maximum power whenever you pedal, which is not good for efficiency and very inconvenient when you want to go slow.

I did experiment with full power only for a while and it was unmanageable in town. I am strong enough to ride past the cut off so it didn't affect battery range as much as I expected, about 65 km instead of 70 km for a full charge so about 7% loss.

 

At 36v with a 15A controller I run most everywhere around town at level 3 (135-155W) I produce about the same so an all up total of a little less than 300W. Using the 2 different chainwheels I could probably ride anywhere with that much power but it is so convenient to be able to up the power and just sit back and relax when climbing some of the steeper hills.

Thanks again for the responses. Have changed the C1 settings to 07 and all the intermittent issues seem to have disappeared. Its probably the correct setting for the KT-V12L from what i read but ill give it a few more rides and see.

 

I also preset C3 to level 5 and its a bit wild for town riding. Top speed has also increased! Ill try a lower level when I can plug it back in later, but I might look into something more discrete than the LCD3 so I can change pas levels when needed.