Spoke question

[Unseen]

Finally got my first ebike via ebay off a member on here! It's specialised rockhopper running I think a Woosh Bafang BPM kit.

Noticed on my first ride into work one of the spokes had snapped, tried a couple of LBS and all had standard spokes but couldn't cut to length *sigh* Seen a few on ebay who will cut to order my question is should I stick with the 13guage that are currently fitted or pay extra to get enough for the whole wheel and go for the butted spokes I've seen mentioned a few times? Bare in mind it's lugging 130Kg of me as well as the bike so would sticking at 13guage be recommended for now?

Thanks

 

[Deleted member 4366]

the rule I use is : One or two spokes are worth repairing, but when it gets to three, it's time to rebuild the whole wheel. I always use 14g spokes because they don't seem to suffer the problems that 13g do.

 

[RobF]

Assuming it's a spoke in the motor wheel that's broken, it won't have been the best quality or build in the first place.

As d8 says, somewhat counter-intuitively a 14g (thinner) spoke often performs better than a 13g one.

Whatever size, I think it's worth getting branded spokes if you can, something with Sapim stamped on it should do the job.

Cutting a spoke to size isn't such a difficult job for a well-equipped workshop and a mechanic who knows what he's doing.

It's disappointing to hear it's beyond two bike shops you tried.

Might be worth tracking down a shop that is competent in basic cycle maintenance.

http://www.sapim.be/spokes/basic/leader

 

[Unseen]

Assuming it's a spoke in the motor wheel that's broken, it won't have been the best quality or build in the first place.

As d8 says, somewhat counter-intuitively a 14g (thinner) spoke often performs better than a 13g one.

Whatever size, I think it's worth getting branded spokes if you can, something with Sapim stamped on it should do the job.

Cutting a spoke to size isn't such a difficult job for a well-equipped workshop and a mechanic who knows what he's doing.

It's disappointing to hear it's beyond two bike shops you tried.

Might be worth tracking down a shop that is competent in basic cycle maintenance.

http://www.sapim.be/spokes/basic/leader

Annoyingly one of the shops has been in Manchester a VERY long time so I too wasn't impressed to get told they didn't have them. To be fair to them, the mechanic wasn't in at the time and it was only counter staff but he seemed fairly adamant that they wouldn't have them in stock. As for the other one I tried meh.. They're relatively new and cater mainly for the student crowd so I guess they wouldn't deal with many ebikes 'yet'.

I'll try tracking down a few sapim 13g ones for now.

 

[Unseen]

the rule I use is : One or two spokes are worth repairing, but when it gets to three, it's time to rebuild the whole wheel. I always use 14g spokes because they don't seem to suffer the problems that 13g do.

Hi Dave,

Yeah only one spoke at the moment so I'll track down some 13g spokes to keep me going.

In regards to the 14g, is it worth going for the butted 13/14g or just a straight swap for 14g?

 

[Woosh]

we keep spokes for the BPM kits - email support@wooshbikes.co.uk if you need them.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You won't get 13g spokes from a bike shop because they're not fitted to normal bikes. You have to go to EBay or a specialist spoke supplier.

 

[Unseen]

You won't get 13g spokes from a bike shop because they're not fitted to normal bikes. You have to go to EBay or a specialist spoke supplier.

Ahhh that explains it a little more... Tried 4 more places, mention ebike "instant no we don't do them" *sigh*

we keep spokes for the BPM kits - email support@wooshbikes.co.uk if you need them.

Email inbound shortly!

 

[pt36]

I just had a second spoke break on Oxydrive CST HT rear wheel, found Sapim 218mm 13g sold on Amazon (bag of 144 silver, a few spare!)

The spokes were originally 12g, so I also had to buy new nipples and rim tape. Found the 13g Sapim 12mm nipples sold on ebay [for 5mm rim hole].

(Also ordered M2.5 brass washers, but the hub is so wide that the spokes wont fit with them added)

Took me about 2-3 hours to change all the spokes. Replaced one at a time on one side first, then the other side. The wheel still wobbles side to side quite a bit even after a 1/4 turn tweak on both sides, but I use disc brakes so no problem?

 

[Nealh]

Replacing/changing all spokes on a wheel is quite easy but truing is a bit of an art but again easy and satisfying when learnt.
For trued wheel take it to an LBS who might do it for you or try your self with wheel on bike.

Using a bike stand spend 1hr or so to fine tune the rim, trueing with a bit of practice and patience you will get there.
What I do on the bike is to put a Cable Tie on one side of
the rear stay adjacent to the rim wall and cut the tail to about 3/4" long.

I work the spokes in groups of four (2 each side).
Rotate the rim until tie is equidistance between each four spokes (Always work from the cable tie side for reference and start at the valve).
The rim will either rub/bend the tail or there will be a gap.
Using 1/2 turn increments loosen or tighten the spokes so that the tail just touches the rim. Working from Ref side if the rim touches tie loosen the spoke pair on Ref side and tighten pair on opposite, if a gap loosen spoke pair on opp side and tighten pair on Ref side ( It is important to loosen before tighten).
Go around each four pairs back to the valve, you may need to do this 2,3 times to fine tune. On the 2nd or 3rd time you can repeat all above and fine tune better by doing each spoke individually.
Once the rim/wheel spins truly which you are happy with pluck the spokes to get them ringing the same tone, any dull sounding spokes tight a 1/8th turn each and spin wheel rechecking true. Re pluck spokes and tighten again any dull ones.