03 Hall error will either be a wire fault or Hall failure . Test the Halls with a meter to see.
Help! My next project
- Thread starter Benjahmin
- Start date
Just looked up the GrinTech test instructions, I'll give it a go.
This is what I got:
R-Bla 4.3v constant
W-Bla 5v constant
Bla-Blu
Bla-G
Bla-yel All switching 5v-0v
Couldn't get 03 error to come up whilst on the stand. Tried powering the wheel under a braking load but no error.
This is what I got:
R-Bla 4.3v constant
W-Bla 5v constant
Bla-Blu
Bla-G
Bla-yel All switching 5v-0v
Couldn't get 03 error to come up whilst on the stand. Tried powering the wheel under a braking load but no error.
Last edited:
Got my new motor, 36v 201rpm, built into wheel and given initial test today.
This motor is much happier on hill climbing. Just did a fairly long, gradually steepening climb on full power. A lot torquier than the last one.
Stopped at the top of the hill to check controller temperature, it felt cool.
Speed registration when pedalling is now pretty much spot on.
However it is still registering 4-5mph low when coasting downhill. This I could live with.
BUT there is still this problem. After a descent, when coming back onto power, it will only deliver around 150w for an unspecific period. I have no idea what eventually triggers it into full action. As there are many V bottomed valleys around here, I need to get this one sorted.
Here are the current settings
P1=168 This assumes 16 magnets and uses quoted reductuin ratio of 10.5
P2=0
P3=1
P4=1
P5=13
C1=07
C2=0
C3=8
C4=3
C5=09
C6=3
C7=0
C8=0
C9=0
C10=n
C11=0
C12=4
C13=0
C14=2
Any idea's anyone?
This motor is much happier on hill climbing. Just did a fairly long, gradually steepening climb on full power. A lot torquier than the last one.
Stopped at the top of the hill to check controller temperature, it felt cool.
Speed registration when pedalling is now pretty much spot on.
However it is still registering 4-5mph low when coasting downhill. This I could live with.
BUT there is still this problem. After a descent, when coming back onto power, it will only deliver around 150w for an unspecific period. I have no idea what eventually triggers it into full action. As there are many V bottomed valleys around here, I need to get this one sorted.
Here are the current settings
P1=168 This assumes 16 magnets and uses quoted reductuin ratio of 10.5
P2=0
P3=1
P4=1
P5=13
C1=07
C2=0
C3=8
C4=3
C5=09
C6=3
C7=0
C8=0
C9=0
C10=n
C11=0
C12=4
C13=0
C14=2
Any idea's anyone?
P2 should be 1 or 6, not zero. That should sort out your speed reading as long as you have a working speed sensor.
I'll try on next ride.
On the stand 6 seemed to be giving an odd reading. I fitted an external sensor that I bought with the motor. I couldn't get any reading from it on any setting. May have been too much space between wheel magnet and sensor.
Zero seemed to give the best.
It's this power delivery delay that's the real problem.
On the stand 6 seemed to be giving an odd reading. I fitted an external sensor that I bought with the motor. I couldn't get any reading from it on any setting. May have been too much space between wheel magnet and sensor.
Zero seemed to give the best.
It's this power delivery delay that's the real problem.
I think that when you pedal hard past the speed limit the controller decides that it has massively overshot the setpoint and then over compensates by reducing the power for a period.
I don't think that changing the settings will make the blindest bit off difference because it is hard coded in there.
I'm currently experimenting with modifying a Lishui controller to behave like the KT. The hope is that it will get rid of this particular problem and also be more adaptable. It is working on a bench test but I haven't had the time to install it and do a road test.
Maybe brake to reach the dip ghost pedalling at 14mph so that the controller's all set for the climb? On mine brake cutoffs respond faster than PAS or speed limit. *
* doh, there was a similar suggestion 90 posts ago.
WLT hear more.
* doh, there was a similar suggestion 90 posts ago.
Have you still got the white wire on the motor connected to the white on the controller or did you hijack it for the external sensor?
Let me explain how that setting works. if you have a speed sensor, you set P2 =1, or 6 if your motor has 6 magnets in the hub for its internal speed sensor. I've never seen an AKM with 6 magnets, though they could always change for some reason. If you have no speed sensor, you set C2=0, then it'll use the motor halls for the speed signal, but that shows the motor speed, not the bike speed. When you freewheel or have the motor switched off, the speed should show zero, though the motor will still be spinning at its max speed when you go downhill if the power is still on, so that's the speed you'll see on the LCD, not the bike speed.
If your external speed sensor is all wired up, you set P2=1 and adjust the gap to 1mm so that it works, then you get the correct speed at all times, assuming that you've set the correct wheel size.
Even if P2 is et to 1, the speed signal will still default to the hall sensors if there is no ouput from the speed sensor.
Back of the net !
Somehow I'd got the info that AKM had 6 magnets.
P2 now set to 1. It's sorted it all. Coasting speed registration now correct. Power pick up also now correct.
Thanks once again Saneagle.
Somehow I'd got the info that AKM had 6 magnets.
P2 now set to 1. It's sorted it all. Coasting speed registration now correct. Power pick up also now correct.
Thanks once again Saneagle.
Related Articles
-
Swytch announce new conversion kit with ‘pocket-sized’ battery- Started by: Pedelecs
-
New Swytch launches on Indiegogo, raises £100k in first hour- Started by: Pedelecs
-
Swytch to unveil 70% smaller, 50% lighter conversion kit- Started by: Pedelecs