250w Ebike Kit with KT Controller

[saneagle]

Here it is at only £231 inc shipping. As well as a cassette motor, the KT controller is 17A, so at 48v, it'll give all the hill-climbing you want. Best of all, it has the block connectors for easy testing. One of the pictures in the description shows a torque arm and the packing list says, "zip ties and protection line". I'm wondering if the protection line is a torque arm.

If you click on the seller, they have loads of other stuff too. They're located in Kunteng, so the KT controller factory must be next door.

36/48V 250W Electric Bike Conversion Kit Brushless Rear Cassette Gear Hub Motor Wheel With TFO1U Color display for EBIKE - AliExpress 18

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

 

[azy77]

Is there any particular display option from that selection you can recommend to go with the 48v motor?
Which battery would go with that kit? I've only put together a Yose kit on a donor bike but thinking about this for my other bike...Is there any soldering involved or is it as straightforward as a Yose kit?

 

[Peter.Bridge]

Is there any particular display option from that selection you can recommend to go with the 48v motor?
Which battery would go with that kit? I've only put together a Yose kit on a donor bike but thinking about this for my other bike...Is there any soldering involved or is it as straightforward as a Yose kit?

Are you setting a record time between your 1st and 2nd conversions

I would go for the LCD 5 out of those options, you'll need a 48v battery too. Don't think you need to solder anything

I wouldn't fit that one on a rim brake bike - it will be significantly more powerful than the Yosepower one

 

[saneagle]

Is there any particular display option from that selection you can recommend to go with the 48v motor?
Which battery would go with that kit? I've only put together a Yose kit on a donor bike but thinking about this for my other bike...Is there any soldering involved or is it as straightforward as a Yose kit?

I always use LCD4 now with a throttle to over-ride the pedal assist setting. The buttons on the LCD4 are difficult to use, but I hardly ever use them. The LCD is set to start on level 2, which is my normal cruise power. Whenever I need more power, I use the throttle to get level 5. You can choose any of the LCDs to suit your needs, except LCD1, which has limited access to settings.

You can get any 48v battery you want. Greenlance and Yose are pretty good. If you get the controller and other stuff from Topbikekit, they have a picking list of the items, which will all have the right connectors. You will most likely need to do something with the battery connectors, depending on which controller you get and where you're going to put it.

 

[azy77]

Thank you @Peter and @saneagle for all the info.

Looks like I'm going to have to get rid of the Giant then once I get another disc bike I will have to keep an eye for this deal again.

 

[azy77]

A quick update, I have managed to get a Carrera Hellcat at a discounted price (apparently cosmetic damage which I can't even see).

So I have a disc based bike with front suspension ready for a new system.

Specs are further down on the link here

Is the KT kit torque based? If it's more powerful than the Yose then that's great.

Is it better to get from aliexpress? I've checked Topbikekit but I don't understand or know anything about the options.

 

[Peter.Bridge]

A quick update, I have managed to get a Carrera Hellcat at a discounted price (apparently cosmetic damage which I can't even see).

So I have a disc based bike with front suspension ready for a new system.

Specs are further down on the link here

Is the KT kit torque based? If it's more powerful than the Yose then that's great.

Is it better to get from aliexpress? I've checked Topbikekit but I don't understand or know anything about the options.

That looks a suitable donor bike. If you follow the link in the 1st post that has a 250w rated 48v rear hub cassette wheel with 17 amp kt display/controller ( that's roughly 850 watts peak power from the controller !). Choose correct wheel size 29 in ?
I would pair that with a 48v 20ah battery. E.g. https://www.pswpower.com/products/eu-stock-electric-bicycle-battery-dc-5c-brand-inr21700-48x-21700-cells-pack-48v-192ah-36v-192ah-lithium-ebike-battery-fits-1000w-bafang-tsdz2-tong-196 (check it fits !)

The kt levels correspond to a power level rather than a speed

So
Level 1 = 13% full power
2= 20 %
3= 30%
4= 50%
5= 100%

You will rarely need to go above level 2

 

[azy77]

I'm thinking of ordering 48V LCD7C SET (looks like a colour display is LCD5 better?) from the first link.

So that Hailong/ Samsung battery from pswpower will definitely have a compatible plug/ socket to the kit from aliexpress?

Is installation similar to the Yose kit then?

Thanks

 

[Nealh]

KT use cadence PAS.
Controller uses current control for power, China call it torque simulation.

 

[azy77]

I think I need to do more research before ordering thanks for your help guys.

 

[Peter.Bridge]

I'm thinking of ordering 48V LCD7C SET (looks like a colour display is LCD5 better?) from the first link.

So that Hailong/ Samsung battery from pswpower will definitely have a compatible plug/ socket to the kit from aliexpress?

Is installation similar to the Yose kit then?

Thanks

Yep installation, follow same steps. Might or might not have compatible plug, if not, it's just connect the output 2 wires from the battery to the controller input. Just make sure whatever method you use doesn't just rely on the bare wire connection (I crimp then and then use insulation tape, but I'm sure there's better methods)

 

[Sturmey]

I fitted a rear hub motor to a Carrera Vengence about two years ago. The rear dropout look almost identical to the Hellcat. It worked out OK but there were two things that I found made fitting the wheel tricky. The first was that the dropouts are really shallow and in my case I did not mind filing them deeper as it was an old bike. However, when you file them deeper, you also file the aluminum hanger and considerably weaken it, so you need a big washer or something against it to stop it from breaking. I also needed extra m6 washers to line up the disk brake properly. A better solution might be some lighter/less filing and to fit torque arms.
Maybe when you get the wheel, put it into the dropouts without the nuts , take a photo of both sides and someone might give you further advice as I have never used torque arms. Best of luck.

 

[thelarkbox]

I think I need to do more research before ordering thanks for your help guys.

List your questions/uncertainties, Collectively im sure we can answer them all.

You should be able to specify or select your controller with the battery connector you prefer and then buy a battery with a matching connector.

If buying sale items ore?? and dont have the options? then its not a show stopper to refit your own connector if necessary.

 

[saneagle]

I think I need to do more research before ordering thanks for your help guys.

The only way to be sure to get the correct connectors on the battery is to buy the complete kit from someone like Woosh, but then you get a speed control controller.

You can get batteries from BMSBattery that include the KT controller kits. Just add the motor or motor wheel. IIRC, the controller's are 20A.

48V10AH/11.6AH/14AH CASE-08 BOTTLE BATTERY PACK Inner Controller Without Cells / Capacity 2.5AH High C-Rate / 10AH

New design bottle-08 ebike panasonic NCR18650PF battery pack 36V14.5Ah included a S180 charger. there is an output for ipad and cellphone charging....

bmsbattery.com

 

[Nealh]

There three types of controller for power .
The KT we have mentioned, one selects the power via five assist levels, each level will provide max speed to 15.5mph.

Other similar controllers use speed control, they can be a bit harsh and not so pleasant to ride. They have a preset max speed for each assist level though tend to give max current in each level .
So if one tries to gently pedal one can't control the power and the power can be harsh at low speed.

Woosh have some speed controllers with varied power levels which they programme, so are a little better then the average generic speed controller.

The other drive is torque sensing and power is determined by rider input, mostly only OEM mid drive, though one can buy TS for hubs and mid drive kits like the AKM TSDZ.

 

[Nealh]

Some of us are KT users and use nothing else for hub drive, those on here that use generic speed controller and convert to KT agree with those of us that use them that the riding experience and control is far better.

Typically those who poo poo hub drives do so because they have only ridden hubs with crappy cheap speed control and then berate hub drives.
They never get to ride KT controlled bikes because their minds are blinkered by their one and only ride.

 

[Peter.Bridge]

A better solution might be some lighter/less filing and to fit torque arms.
View attachment 64174

I think that kit is powerful enough to warrant a torque arm

 

[Sparksandbangs]

I'm thinking of ordering 48V LCD7C SET (looks like a colour display is LCD5 better?) from the first link.

So that Hailong/ Samsung battery from pswpower will definitely have a compatible plug/ socket to the kit from aliexpress?

Is installation similar to the Yose kit then?

Thanks

All the fancy colour displays are harder to read in bright sunlight.

The LCD3 shows power in Watts as you are using it and is quite large in landscape.

LCD6 shows the same plus cadence but this is a rarer display and harder to find but is in portrait(Google them and you will see what I mean). Both have separate buttons from the display.

LCD5 has the buttons combined with the display and shows everything that the 3 does except the Wattage.

LCD4 is miniscule. Quite a surprise when you are used to the 3 but sits nicely on the handlebars. Same functions as the 5.

 

[saneagle]

All the fancy colour displays are harder to read in bright sunlight.

The LCD3 shows power in Watts as you are using it and is quite large in landscape.

LCD6 shows the same plus cadence but this is a rarer display and harder to find but is in portrait(Google them and you will see what I mean). Both have separate buttons from the display.

LCD5 has the buttons combined with the display and shows everything that the 3 does except the Wattage.

LCD4 is miniscule. Quite a surprise when you are used to the 3 but sits nicely on the handlebars. Same functions as the 5.

I wish we didn't have so much choice. It makes deciding too hard.

 

[Nealh]

For most LCD 3, 4 or 5 should be enough for most users.
My personnel fav's are the 3 or 4.