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It's really noticeable when you slow at a roundabout (brakes cutting the motor), for example, see it's clear and then engage the throttle and then a big wait before you feel the power. I'm wondering if that when throttle is engaged, the power is ramped up gradually which accounts for the...

Just had a quick test. It seems the delay is proportionate to the speed. Throttle actuation when wheel still = Instant response. Wheel spinning slowly = Small hesitation before throttle response. Wheel spinning at full speed (27.5MPH) = approximately 1.5 seconds until I hear and feel the...

My Kunteng controller (with KT-LCD1) does that. I need to do a bit more testing to understand exactly what's going on but the throttle is delayed by a second or so only if the wheel is moving. It's bloody annoying.

After adding extra bits and upgrades I've bit the bullet and transferred it all to a new frame - something I haven't done before. I'm most happy about squeezing the controller between the seat tube and rear wheel (in a smaller box) and routing the wires internally. New black pedals are on...

My Cyclotricity Stealth did. Uses a Kunteng controller that can also be set to speed control.

Woosh, I'm also very keen to get hold of one with the Higo connector. :)

Much appreciated Dave, that's a huge help. Am I right in thinking I should just solder them in and wrap with electrical tape and heatshrink or is there a better way?

It's great to see one customised with the red accents. My 500W is quick enough but I do often wonder wonder about the fun I could be having with the 1000W! Does anyone know what motors these are? I don't think I've seen any others with the extended bits where the spokes are threaded.

Here's the cable I'm hoping to extend:

I'd like to extend/splice in extra cable between controller and LCD/brakes/throttle on my Cyclotricity kit but not sure which kind of cable to use and how many cores I'd need. Would I need all 8 cores for this? 6 core is easier to find than 8 core. I can see that the Julet connector on the loom...

What did Cyclotricity say to check next? They're usually pretty good at helping sort these things out on the phone. If they've tested the battery as okay then I wouldn't buy a new one. Surely the problem must be in the wiring, motor or controller. When you charge the battery are you seeing...

No loose bearings, but you'll need a freewheel removal tool available for about 4 or 5 quid. It is a straight forward job. When choosing one, ensure the hole in the centre is big enough to go over the typically larger ebike rear axle.

I'm really keen to get hold of one of these with the Juliet connector. Please let me know if you see any for sale. I like the easy access to settings and not having to leave an LCD on the bike when unattended. I've seen them on BMS Battery but they're a different connector. I also note that...

Which controls do you have on the bike? Does it say 790?

7 speed available on Ebay here. The same seller also sells them as a set with a freewheel tool that will cope with the larger 14mm axles found on some kits.

Yes! I was nervous at first, expecting the forks to self destruct but they've been great. The forks were a bit more expensive but £10 each for CF handlebars and seat post is a no brainer. The extra heatsinks arrived today so I soldered the shunt a bit more. Looking forward to testing that...

I'm running a 500W Cyclotricity Stealth - same parts as the 500W kit. With and without the shunt mod adding more current it naturally wants to sit around 23MPH - 25MPH if I pedal reasonably hard on the flat. Even lifting the wheel off the ground it maxes out at 27.5MPH. Looks like you may need...

Extra photos including fork and controller model number:

And thanks to advice from this thread, I finally managed to get the DNP 11T freewheel on! I had to file down a washer slightly as the new freewheel sticks out more than the original.

I added some small heatsinks. Unfortunately the larger heatsink in the photos wouldn't fit in the case! D'oh! Oh well, the tiny ones that are left will help for now. More are on order. I then vented the case, with one vent at the front protruding slightly to stop rain flowing into the hole...