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I think your looking for problems.. ;) If the linked to manual pictures correctly indicate the current controller is housed in the current battery base in the rack? you need only source a similar rack style replacement battery. This will arrive with its own empty base which you should have...

Ok i missed the bike full id in the title and searched for freego oxygen doh!, That bike sure looks more 15mph capable ;) Yeah, probably not the bike you would have bought if you expected to want to upgrade the control system.. If applicable a return might be worth consideration? if looking...

Got any pics of or links to your bike? google suggests a rigid step thru shopper which sounds unlikely to be shifting at speeds over 15 mph comfortably?? (tho i could be letting the limitations of my local rds colour my perception) A controller upgrade should resolve most of the issues...

Why so loyal to Bosh and how can they stop you fitting an aftermarket compatible motor on a 4yr old bike? If the bike suits your needs and the bearing issue is unlikely to spawn countless knock on issues and problems involving further hassle and expense?? £275 spread over the extended life of...

the 6 pin hall sensor connector is an indicator its a sensor'd controller, and to the best of my understanding having read similar guides, after buying a 'great ebay deal' its probably a square wave controller. Its supposed to provide a rougher noisier ride than a sinewave controller, Mine isnt...

For the last 12months Yose have been shipping a JYT brand controller with 250w rear wheel kits, its totally locked down, even the f/w bods on pedelec.de have no hacks or cracks..

Also send pic #1 above to the supplier for advice.. if a reputable kit seller they should send out a replacement pdq on that evidence alone..

just isolate the loose wire with some tape and testing the bike system will have no detrimental effects other than aspects not connected correctly wont work ;)

hmm #1 with no power connected test continuity with a multimeter between the black (ground?) wire in the display plug? and the loose brown wire.. and fingers crossed for a beep ;) that indicates its a common ground connection. both the brake and throttle plugs look 1 wire short to me ...

If a twist throttle is needed you can source the yose 350w kit battery base/controller and display which will not be f/w hobbled as its the 'international version'.. Or a 36v kt controller in the 'inside battery base' format could be sourced from a supplier like topbikekit, but the refit is a...

If like my yose kit the only things you can change are the speed metric, either mph or kmh. And the wheel size the effect of which is a proportional difference in the speed displayed while the motor performs pretty much the same regardless.. However, its no big deal since the bike works :) I...

male and female terminal blocks can be bought for £5-10 from the usual suppliers so can be retrofitted to match as long as the base slide is compatible..

That explains how you misplaced the original charger.. hope your on the way to a full recovery.. can you confirm if the battery charges at all or wont charge ? if it charges but the fully charged voltage is 35v thats one thing and the batteries history of standing for years might explain...

Yes @Ghost1951 , But only charging to 50% however would require the battery to be so far out of balance that the battery wouldn't charge at all in the first place?? -Im confused now.. And fwiw the 2.2v value above was pulled from my rear as a suggested minimum viable voltage to consider...

How old is the battery?? if bought from a uk dealer its probably got 12-24months of warranty? Whats the bikes history?

Missed this in the OP, it charges, but not Fully!! DOH! if only charging upto 50% @brackb01 ? I take it thats going by the bike display or battery leds? use a multimeter on the battery output terminals for a real reading.. could be a dodgy led circuit board ?? but if the charger is stopping...

However IF the battery is just below the voltage the bms registers as too low? then a recharge should be fine.. the red flag is finding a group of cells with a significantly lower voltage than the others in the battery,, and it the group has dropped way too low.. thats bad news..

Not really, generally bike batteries are 18650 or larger cells spot welded together. and require SAFE procedures and equipment like a spot welder to work on at the cell level. - also considerations like the fact new cells will not match the charge discharge profile of older cells even if...

NOT AN EXPERT!!.. Did the battery sit for a long period without a charge? if so something like the bms itself could drain the battery or a single group of cells below the level its considered safe to recharge?? If your battery is at a low voltage you may need to open it up and confirm that...

Above spray flamethrower suggestions are jokes!! just to be 100% clear Idle summer afternoon musings full stop..