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An interesting vid on youtube from linus tech tips recently where they attempted recelling a couple of significantly smaller 18650 packs 8x and 4x iirc.. It indicates that learning to weld batteries could be both hazardous and expensive - tho the welder used seemed to be a bit overpowered...

Interesting pic.. Thats what i call a Butchers bike, probably because i recall a city Butcher using one as an eye catching prop for the daily specials board when i was a lad. Looks like your shops are safe from the faridge thugs.. ;)

Probably the best solution to travelling at 20 mph on an ebike would be to use the motor to assist you upto 15mph, drop into a suitable gear and push a bit on the pedals.. 20 mph is quite speedy on the best condition rds, could be worth getting an ebike and seeing how you go at 15mph first...

I'm not arguing against the KT brand controllers being superior just that for some the 'Kr@p' controllers can be sufficient for pottering around. I think my yose kit was shipped with the 'worst' controller (Lin brand?) Its worked fine however even if i cant make any config changes beyond...

Hi and welcome.. +1 to what @az says.. I would fit and experience the kit you have before making any firm decisions on the next build tho ;) List any deficiencies in the kit you have and im pretty sure the guys in the know can advise on kit and systems within the regs to meet any criteria...

Fwiw 12 months on after buying a yose-power conversion kit for my bike i am still Very happy and pleased with the purchase.. The limited config options of the controller are of little consequence, the bike just works, tho it did take a few weeks to get over no twist grip throttle ala m/cycling...

STOP PRESS The folk who pay for insurance claims want to limit their liability.

Glad it was discovered while off the bike and not while cornering at speed.. a bit of jb-weld and a couple of lolly stick splints held on with cable ties or gaffer tape and you should be good to wheel it down to the shop to buy new forks..

Yes thats fine, the yose battery supplied with my kit last summer only indicates on the battery when the membrane button is pressed. If the same as mine when charging the charger shows a red indicator led, when complete this will turn green.

when buying spokes i found amazon prime next day delivery and no quibble returns policy a VERY beneficial. after a couple of attempts lacing a wheel with too short spokes i was as fast at the job as the guys in the 5 minutes youtube vids detailing the procedure.. When i finally zoned in on the...

Thats why I have kept the inoffensive tho penetrating (on quiet roads/paths) ding of a bell.. I have considered a horn,, even bought a 2a truck horn.. Yep its loud.. and it may still find its way on the bike for emergency hollering. Only folk i recall showing annoyance at the sound of a...

Fwiw im now in the habit of flicking the bell whenever i come up behind anyone where its otherwise quiet, most will signal an acknowledgement, a few remain oblivious requiring a 2nd ding , once the startled rabbit response when i passed even made me take a 2nd look for something i was unaware of..

Simple solution, remove the battery when arriving at work and take it in with you and fast charge it under your desk/workstation under a cover of flammable materials with an ali express special deal charger. resulting in a zero chance of your bike catching fire..

looks like a front hub drive which has been installed upside down?? And it looks like the controller is housed in the battery mount rear? so without the keys may require destructive persuasion to reveal its secrets. the motor position (upside down) would indicate the risk of water ingress and...

Cheers i thought it was a typo,, doh!!

36v motor controllers generally cut off power due to low voltage when a battery drops below 29-31v, (mine is 31v but others ??) iirc a 24v battery fully charged is 29v.. so while a 24v battery fully charged may start a 36v motor system on the bench it wont have any juice to move you any...

removing the screws from the end caps and securing the mosfets to the case for heat exchange should let you pull the pcb from the controller case letting you check the silk screen print for labels where the wires connect. Though a google image search will probably provide the info with less...

So High amp controller and battery drain capacity with a 48v system then.. matched with a 36v motor for the overvolt boost too perhaps? Google to the rescue when it comes to OP's 'ideal' bike.. Ha- its our local scooter scat-ter-er,

I dont know the bike you speak of but the 250w rear wheel kit from yose-power i fitted last summer certainly works just the way you want when set to pas level 5 and in a low gear. Once you have started the bike, all you need do is keep the pedals revolving at any pace that suits you to maintain...

Anything elw electronic i would suggest running it on the bench and looking for signs of overheating.. cant quite see how to do the same with an ebike tho as running under load for x miles is tricky to emulate..