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not in UK and also much more expensive, but the rear G209 may also fits 8 and 9 speed: http://www.fietsunie.nl/webshop/motoren--motors/crystalyte-motoren/detail/113/crystalyte-g-serie-motoren.html

I think I have to return it to lyen for replacement because the controller can still work with the cycle analyst. So no cct. Frank, the controller cost 199$. Link here: Endless-sphere.com • View topic - 12 FET 84-132V High Voltage Racing Controller - LYEN $199

A direct drive motor doesn't have any gear, so it's stronger because it doesn't have gears to damage. It's a hub motor and sits inside the wheel. A geared motor has gear inside and have better efficiency than direct drive, better torque because of its gears. But it's also not as strong and gears...

Thanks for the info guys. Thanks Neptune for information about the multimeter. For now I can't really use it on the controller. Except to measure continuity on the MOFSET. Frank, this controller is NEW!! I'm going to ask Lyen to help me to fix it. It was so expensive I don't want to just throw...

I'm planning to have current limitation of 25-30amps through the CA and an additional fuse limitation of 40amps through fuse. The motor should be able to handle 2000W peak for short period (only for acceleration) then 500-750W continuous. Do you know how do I measure each phase wire voltage...

Actually I swapped the controller and the motor was working. And the cycle analyst was able to read the correct voltage. So the motor and battery are fine. So it can only be the controller problem because everything else was working

Thanks muckymits, I'm going to get 1 tester. Oigoi, the controller is supposed to handle up to 150V and it's a 12 fets one. But I may should limit the current to 40a with a fuse? Maybe this one? 12V DC CAR AUDIO CIRCUIT BREAKER FUSE 40AMP 40 AMP 40A | eBay

Here is inside the controller: Not sure what to look at, but the connections seem ok.

Here is the resistance test on the controller phase wire: Is it good?

Just realised that the cycle analyst was still working so there us current going through the controller. Is it useful to check the hall and phase sensor continuity as a transistor has probably blown inside?

Just sawped with my other controller... And it worked. It's definitely a problem with the controller :( Going to check controller resistance now

Hello Fatts, I also investigated about the mezzo electrification. You're lucky because the rear dropout width is 135mm.. so you can decide between several motors. :) What speed are you aiming at? For geared motor, you can have the BPM, Ezee motor, the mac motor or even the cute100...

What is a CCT? I haven't used any fuse but I definitely have to use that later (need more knowledge to know which one to use) I have a multimeter but I don't know how to check for continuity from that. What option should I turn on the multimeter? Thanks a lot

I spent a bit of time checking for connection. For now, I plugged and reppluged most connection. A CA is a Cycle Analyst. Sorry for the jargon lol

I was also wondering if it was overloaded by the current. But the controller shouldn't allow higher current than what it can handle isn't it? How do I check for continuity through the winding? Shall I plug the multimeter through some plugs?

I spent so much time and effort for this... :(

Hello there, I tested for the first time my brompton with the direct drive conhismotor today. It's a 20s lipo (74V) setup with lyen controller (37V-150V). I was at 80V and running around 7 amps at 500W. Did 1 peak at 1500W. I was running around 7 amps when it suddently stopped working...

For a total weight of 4.5kg: I'll for now put that on my brompton front bag :)

Now I've put my 4 lipo in a carton box: When it's closed, just the cable is reachable:

Night build update: I filed the tensioner like crazy in order to make it fit with the torque arm :) Result: It's almost there, just a minor misalignement... leave it like this for now because there is not much plastic remaining to file on the chain tensioner :)