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Here's the PAS fitted to the left as described by d8veh, notice the small magnets facing outwards.

The long wire with 5 thin coloured wires inside the black heatshrink on the end need the pins inserting into the seperate white plug end in the same places as the same colors in the other half of that plug which is connected to the controller.

Is that d8veh's own built bike in the background? I hope you get to show your own bikes on the gadget show. Given your experience I think they'd be silly not to offer you a job on their technical team.

According to my wattmeter the amps didn't change when I altered the C5 setting. Any ideas? Is there another setting to change too?

Just looked and seen I too have the same on my new S12S which I got with an LCD3. I see it is in the plug position which is normally empty. I am guessing it's for the temperature sensor if the motor has one as the LCD3 can display this ? Did your S12S have the old large plugs on the brake...

I will give it a go. I guess the controller gives full amps until a particular speed is reached? How are the 5 different speeds set ? I can't find anything in the manual.

I tried my LCD3 this weekend with my wattmeter attached and found the PAS amp levels a bit strange. PAS levels 3,4,5 on s12s went something like 10a,14a and 26a, wheres the inbetween 14a and 26a? I was expecting it to uniformly increase by a fifth. Likewise on a s06s they went something like...

I am currently using a cheap gel saddle from lidl and find it comfortable and very shock absorbing.

Did you mange to bring life back into the dodgy cell?

Thanks for the photo, I thought it would be made up of loads of those small round cells. I guess I will have to put up with the weight.

Before starting to ebike regularly I purchased one of these 36v 20ah shrinkwrapped batteries with the idea I could just charge once/twice a week instead of daily. https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-battery/445-36v-20ah-li-ion-shrink-tube-ebike-battery-pack-battery.html On the dozen or so times I've...

Saying that made me think they may have had problems in the past with them overheating so have seperated the hotter parts a bit more also shared the current between 2 shunts and give more air inside and more metal casing for the heat. I've got just the thing to mount it on, nobody will notice it.

I got it from BMSbattery and yes the LCD3 is a display console which is mounted in the center of the handlebar with seperate buttons.

Yep full of air !! For anyone interested here they are opened. They are different though, the new one has 2 shunts and the pcb is about an inch longer. I take it they will still be the same thing and the LCD3 will work with both? No wonder they charged extra shipping, this thing needed it's own...

Recently ordered an LCD3 to try. To top the order up with other bits and forgetting at the time I already had one in the garage I ordered an S12S controller. It came today and it's mahoosive. Now I need a truck size bike to try it on. Any Ideas why the new one would be sooo big? Compare the...

My first idea fits a 10s 6ah battery quite well.It's a Topeak MondopackXL This is the battery I knocked up from 2x2s and a 6s, wrapped in packaging foam then ducktaped and a handle strap off a box of washing powder taped on. When I next need a battery I will be trying the crossbar pannier...

Could I ask, aprox how many charges has it had and how many miles you got with it?

Which batteries did you end up going for?

"You're making it too complicated" That's me all the time, following a lot of your tips is helping me with that ! My initial concern was the exposed connections on the back of that volt meter, one come very loose so I was concerned about one coming off and shorting out and also with soon...

I am now happy my wire is protecting from serious short (fire) and now fancy having a go at that LCD to controller fuse (for the challenge) on a spare controller first. To confirm I am putting this fuse between the thin red wire between the LCD and the circuit board...