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Your reply tells me that YOU don't know. The correct answer is "You can't remove pins from molded connectors". Maybe it's time to hand that shovel back...

Perhaps you can enlighten us... How do you push a pin out of a molded connector?

Don't worry, that's how they're meant to behave. Once the magnets are positioned close to the sensors, the brake cutouts will disable and the motor will come to life again.

The same rules apply with regen as when you are using the motor to generate motion. There are two ways you can damage a motor; physical damage to the motor axle due to torque and heat damage due to copper losses (IR²). The KT manual is referring to copper losses. Efficiency drops as regen...

They are. They've just been rebranded as 'Turnigy High Capacity'.

Hell no! Direct drive (DD) motors are absolutely gutless running on 15A. I'm of the opinion that DD motors are pointless running below 35A, since geared motors are able to reliably generate similar torque levels up to around this point.

Yep, totally normal to hear a little growl at low RPM's if using a trapezoidal (non-sinewave) controller.

Pffft...... amateurs .

Hi. It looks like a Neutrik Speakon connector, though I'm not sure which one.

danielrlee submitted a new listing: WANTED – Front wheel direct drive motor mounted in 20” rim, disc brake compatible. - WANTED – Front wheel direct drive motor mounted in 20” rim, disc brake compatible. Learn more about this listing...

There becomes a point at around 30mph where it is less efficient to pedal and you're better off tucking your legs in to minimise aero drag.

I know that the user 'cwah' had a collection of faulty motors that he wanted to get rid of a short while back, so you might want to get in touch with him.

How anyone can justify £169 on a pair of trainers, I'll never understand. Are they walk assist?

There may be other benefits to upgrading, depending on the controller, but an increase in power is not one of them.

No difference. 35A is 35A. Is the 1000W or 1500W controller physically larger than your 800W controller? If so, they can probably take a bit more abuse (heat) before they fail, but the power output will be the same.

Sorry, you're out of luck. With a hard 40A BMS limit, 35A output is the most you're going to get out of it.

Do you have any more details about your battery and motor? I suspect that unless your battery is made from more 'exotic' cells, it's probably already near its limit outputting 35A.

Yes, at 400A. The point was that most 1000W motors can take considerably more than 25A. I think the guy in the video (LFP) overdid it just a bit though.

For entertainment purposes, here's the very same motor being fed over 44kW: /thread hijack

You must've experienced some shockingly bad 1000W motors in your time. IME, most 1000W motors can take significantly more power than that. For example, the Crystalyte H3540 (1000W rated) can take over 5kW before it reaches its saturation point.