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Thank you Andy. I've always wondered what you were referring to whenever you've mentioned a "zero volt charger" in the past. Without any additional information, my cynicism leads me to believe that it's nothing more than a regular CC/CV power supply, although I could well be wrong. Do you (or...

Andy, do you have a link to this charger?

A price, location and some photos might improve your chances of making a sale.

This hub motor lacing video tutorial from Grin is probably the best that I've come across:

Are you sure you've got the right product? The EggRider v2 is currently £85, priced £15 more than v1 was when I looked last time.

I've always considered the EggRider better value than the China copies, since it features Bluetooth, where the copies don't. IIRC, the price difference was only around £20 the last time I looked.

The LED on my phone would be sufficient in that scenario. Another option would be simply reflecting the light off a nearby object. Otherwise, it only takes the loosening of a single screw to allow me to reposition one of my main lights to wherever the light is needed.

Many of you forget that once your ebike battery is too far discharged to sustain 15-20A that your motor requires to operate, it's still capable of outputting 1A that your lighting requires to shine for a long while after the motor cuts out. That's why (to me at least) powering lighting directly...

I might be wrong, but it looks as if the 'suspension' comes from the flexing of the plastic saddle. I hope somebody is there to see the look on your face when the saddle eventually breaks and pinches your nutsack or gooch in the resulting crack!

If it was, you'd definitely win.

An interesting read. Thanks for posting.

Andy, you're talking about two very different things. You're referring to the power required to maintain a given speed. VFR is referring to the current draw of a motor through its entire RPM range and the effect of the BEMF on this current draw. IMO, VFR is correct. Current draw is higher at...

https://ebikebatteries.co.uk/

A 36V battery should output 42V when fully charged.

It's certainly worth saying that your next step should be to charge your battery. Make sure you leave it on charge for a minimum of 24 hours, so that the BMS has a chance to balance the pack sufficiently.

You need a better source of information. That website is a climate change denier's wet dream! Do you know who funds it? https://www.sourcewatch.org/index.php/Climate_Depot

I can't remember the exact top voltage, but I think the 40.5V figure quoted by Clive was measured halfway through a recent ride, when his system failed. Can you confirm that this is the case Clive?

I agree, that is usually very annoying, but in Clive's defence, he didn't come here looking for technical advice. He's just looking for a LBS able to assist him further.

I saw that you weren't asking for technical advice, but that won't stop this lot from trying to help. It's probably easier for me to convey what's happened up until now. Clive bought a sensorless 9FET KT controller from me a few weeks ago. No communication occurred at the time of purchase...

Hi Clive It's Dan from TorqueTech here. Do you mind me butting in to the conversation and revealing some of the missing details of your issue?