Search results

Please post links to both your motor kit and the battery in question and I'll give you my personal opinion.

Unfortunately, you're not going to get away with a budget option for use with a direct drive motor. Take a look at the following battery with 25R cells (48V 9.8Ah): https://em3ev.com/shop/em3ev-48v-13s4p-super-shark-ebike-battery/?currency=GBP

Does your controller have a pair of blue wires (cruise wire) with a 'loop connector' attached? If so, try disconnecting them.

I can confirm that it should be compatible.

As long as the direction of rotation is the same, whether you're pulling up or pushing down on the pedals does not alter the direction of force at the crank.

Torque is usually measured at the crank or bottom bracket, so the forces the individual pedals are subjected to are not important.

Not sure if this is the cause of your problem, but if you're using a standalone wheel speed sensor, custom parameter P2 should be set to '1'.

A better option might be to use a decent generator, such as one of the Honda EU series...

It seems that you are correct: https://www.aliexpress.com/af/rust-laser.html Still not quite affordable enough for the 'home user' yet though. Give it a few more years....

That's one of the most impressive things I've seen on YT recently. I can't wait for the China knock-off's to appear over the next few years!

The difference is that with a hub motor, an "incorrect gear" will only affect the human input power. With a mid-drive motor, both human power and motor power is affected.

Yes, but that's missing the point somewhat. With a mid-drive motor, torque delivery has to stop regardless whenever you change gear.

The connection is incorrect and you are shorting the controller's 5V regulator to ground. Hopefully nothing is permanently damaged. Instead, you need to connect the red brake lever wire to controller yellow and leave the black brake lever wire connected to controller black.

Another disadvantage of a mid-drive over a hub motor, is the interruption in torque delivery each time you reach the motor's BEMF and have to change gear as you work your way through the available speed range. Hub motors don't suffer the same issue and deliver continuous torque through their...

*sigh*

Andy, can I suggest that you are possibly taking some of the criticism that you receive on this forum a little too personally. VFR is widely regarded as one of the most knowledgeable and practical electric bike experts on the planet. Admittedly, I wouldn't describe him as a 'people person' – he...

Thank you for taking the time to form a lengthy reply to my question, but I'm not sure exactly how to respond. Effectively, you're saying "it's a magic box". In lieu of any additional technical information, I can only assume the 'magic box' you have practical experience of is simply a 42V CC/CV...

I'm not sure if this has already been mentioned, but there are two common causes of runaway throttle that can often be identified by the runaway speed: Half-speed runaway - Caused either when the lower throttle stop magnet or the hall sensor comes loose. Full-speed runaway - Caused by a break...

Please don't take my questioning the wrong way Andy. I'd be quite happy to discover a previously unknown piece of equipment that helps to recover batteries, but I'm still none the wiser about this "zero volt charger". Seeing as you are the only person that knows, when should a zero volt charger...

I was going to say that if a BMS is preventing charging due to a low voltage condition, there's no device on earth that will allow charging through the normal charging port, but VFR beat me to it. I'm almost certain that the charger linked to is just an extortionately priced CC/CV power supply...