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The freewheel give a little kick in the second video. I would take the chain off or tie it up off the freewheel or whatever so that the complete freewheel spins with the motor when you check again. This would indicate if the fault is in the freewheel or not.

No need to deflate in this case (break at j bend) where you are replacing the 13g broken spoke with another 13g spoke. You reuse the existing 13g nipple. But you do have to be careful that the nipple does not fall into the cavity on some rims by either putting a bit of tape on it and putting...

Looking at your photo above, your freewheel has a large 34 tooth sprocket. The DNP freewheel on my daughters bike has a 32 tooth. One advantage of this slightly smaller 32 tooth sprocket is that there is just about enough room with slight bending of the spoke to replace the spokes on the...

My daughters month and date is stamped under the bottom bracket as part (I think) of the serial number (7 2017 if I can recall)

I suppose the suggestion in the video is to increase the indentation. To what extent this is acceptable is another story.

You could consider putting a small dent/dimple on the chainstay at the area in contact to get a few extra mm's. The guy on one of the original installation videos had a special tool for this but it could be done with a hammer and suitable shaped soft/wooden implement. (One of the advantages of...

The 250W rating refers to mechanical output. A motors mechanical output can not be measured by measuring its input, whether this is coal, oil or electricity. (It can only be guessed by assuming a certain efficiency and this is easier to do with an electric motor.) (imo) If you think about it...

I have rearranged the rear gear cluster to 14, 16, 19, 24 & 34 t and all moved to the most outer position. Thats 5 gears only at 7 speed spacing (5mm pitch). The smaller 34t inner front chainring works perfect with all gears. The larger 44t outer chainring works well to the 14, 16, 19 & 24. I...

I have to say that I am very happy with the reliability of the hub motors. My Yose 350 rear has 42000Km clocked up and has never been opened. The Xf07 has slightly higher mileage and I open it once to replace a wheel bearing that I was able to buy from my local auto spares. The inside of motor...

On road. The local cycling club put up a sign which claims its 15.7% max climb using 'strava' as shown on my avatar. Cyclotravel's (which I think uses the ordnance surveys 10 meter contour lines and may not be as accurate on short stretches) is as shown in photo below which roughly tallies with...

The losses with two smaller motors are not necessarily greater. But you are probably right in that if a single suitable hub motor that could supply the same torque as the two smaller motors was readily/easily available, then this would be a better option and would be less conspicuous. Can you...

The dual hub setup works great on hills. I have used an additional front xf07 front as a sort of booster motor with a yose 350 rear for steep hills. No steering problems. The xf07 when idle has practically no friction. Its technically a very good and robust solution for steep hills. (imo) Its a...

Just as regards above, I have found the clamps on the front derailleurs to be reasonably soft/malleable and easy to work and easy to change/increase the diameter by fitting a longer bolt and filing the corner a little as shown in photo below. The clamp can be reshaped (for example) by using a...

I think this can be done with the newer KT controllers and LCD's by setting C5 to 0 or 1 or 2 although I did not try it. It could be a useful function on front wheel hub motors to reduce the stress on dropouts. I would be interested myself in comments/feedback on this as I have been looking into...

The older 2009 EN15194 did specify a requirement for mechanic strength but I am not sure of the position now.

Make sure you do not block any drain holes. On mine, the cover is loose at the bottom and there is a slot. I presume this is to let water drain out. I have mine 3 years (2700km) with original firmware/no modifications and have never opened the motor.

I always make up a cover for them to prevent water/mud thats thrown up from the front wheel clogging them up (KT v12L). This seems to make them reliable and I have some working for years without problems.

I am looking at a carrera Vengeance at the moment (which I got secondhand very cheap). They may not be the most suitable bike to convert. The rear dropouts are very shallow and the hanger plate is not that deep so I dont see any potential for filing deeper. I could make up a set of steel...

I think the 7 speed (older style screw on) freewheels is the limit for ordinary (non electric) older style rear hubs as the axle wont support the longer distance necessary between the bearing cone and the dropout, and the axle tended to bend. The newer casette/freehub design corrects this. With...

I have the version with the throttle that helps. PS. You can also use a regular straight crank of the type found on older narrow frame bikes but you have to grind off the swaging to remove the unwanted chainwheel from crank.(I have done this to try out shorter cranks) My mid drive is not as...