Search results

People have had varied experiences with aftermaket batteries. There is a thread on the German forum about them at https://www.pedelecforum.de/forum/index.php?threads/erfahrungen-mit-akkus-für-yamaha-von-drittherstellern.46096/ Use google translate to help.

I have, I know it works because I have done it. I've never personally seen it wirk on Bosch hence the number of dongles available. Maybe it works with the new motors with the full size chainrings as it is certainly now possible to have a 1-1 transmission. If you have a 32 tooth chainring and a...

2) Don't think that works with Bosch motors, it's fine with Yamaha. Please update if it is successful.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/975488/Yamaha-X94-Series.html

Having the second battery fitted will be better for battery life assuming both are discharged in parallel.

I guess on the road bike the ring is dished outwards to clear the chainstays. I'm sure the spider is a standard part between all Yamaha motors with the same PCD. A couple of chainrings will cost £20/30 to prove concept. It can't be that difficult for anyone with a degree of understanding of how...

Post a pic of your front mech mounting. I suspect you can fit any FSA 104bcd chainrings, 32/44 is normal for a 2 chainring mountain bike. Bear in mind it is just a slightly modified Yamaha motor and they are available with all sorts of different chainrings.

If that's the case then fine, just looks like more than 200mm sticking out in the pics.

Good idea but I'd be looking for a lot more insertion than that.

It's nearly exactly the same spread as you already have at 381.8%

Traditional advice is to try and split the commute over 2 days. Take the bike to work in the car then ride home, do the opposite the next day.

Pedestrians don't expect filtering. If the traffic is stopped it is clear. Ride defensively not as if you own the road, it is a shared space! BTW I'm not saying she's completely blameless.

If you can downshift when already in bottom gear it isn't properly set. The cage on any derailer will go to the same position i.e. directly under the largest sprocket.

You will be limited by the depth you can screw in to your blocks rather than how much is sticking out. IME short will be good enough, you have traction on snow anyway with MTB tyres. When it is icy / frosty short studs (lots of them) give grip. The worst scenario is a load of fresh snow over ice...

No need to drill holes, they cut their own way in.

I have used screw in studs on Car tyres (and my boots) and they were fine in that application. The only way I could see to fit them to a bike would be to screw them into the blocks on an MTB tyre.

I was thinking more of increasing the size of the single but hadn't realised you need all the gears. 11 - 40 9 speed cassettes are available but probably a lot more expensive than yout current ones! My riding is considerably different to yours, nearly always on a 10% ave gradient up or down:)...

Is there a particular reason for not fitting a larger chainring to get more into the middle of the cassette?

Just for info, the police here in Austria do have a portable dynamometer and do sometimes carry out speed checks. They are also clued up on the sequences some of the Bosch dongles require to start them.

Be careful, if you increase the current the amount of heat generated will go up quite substantially. On secont thoughts you are going to Tow Law it's always windy and freezing up there:p