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P2 should be 1 or 6, not zero. That should sort out your speed reading as long as you have a working speed sensor.

The LCD works independently from the motor. If it won't switch on, either it is not receiving battery voltage or it has a communication problem that is shutting it down. very occasionally, you get problems like a wire detatched in the switch or LCD or water in somewhere that damages the...

I think you need to explain what's going on and which brakes you have. What happened? Don't tell me it was "the dog ate my brakes" again, or was it the rabbit?

We need to know how much better it is than the original system, plus, we need to know what was the final sequence of phase and hall wires. I'm really pleased that you persevered. Many people, who try things like that, give up at the first problem. For anybody else, always go for the KT...

The Engwe LE20 will be perfect for what you want. It has a very powerful 48v motor and is adaptable for carrying all sorts of loads including kids. It's also pretty cheap and very good value at only £1250...

All my chains are the cheapest you can buy from Ebay. They usually last 5 years with just EP90. No need for expensive nickel. I'm not sure about my crank-drive bikes, but I'll soon be back on hub-motor again, so I won't need to worry about it.

More likely, you legs became stronger.

The problem is that if the chain is not protected everywhere, it will go rusty as soon as water gets on it.

That was some guy's brilliant idea for thinning it down a bit. Unfortunately, he wasn't clever enough to figure out that he could have bought EP80 if he wanted thinner oil, but the whole point of 90 grade is that it sticks to the chain because it's viscous.

Original 3-in-one. Nothing else. It must be the one that says, "Cleans, Lubricates and Prevents rust...

Yes, but he's a masochist! It doesn't mean that you have to do it.

£59 for a motor, £10 for spokes, £60 for control set, £0 ever after for chains and cassettes, plus a better ride, and no more crashing gears that break your bike and leave you stranded.

Chuck the mid-drive and get a hub-motor. Otherwise, why would you want to polish a turd?

You can measure it very easily with a tape measure if you have it unbuilt from the wheel, otherwise a bit of stiff cardboard and a tape measure. Cut a dish out of the cardboard to clear the axle, then lay it on the wheel and mark the two positions of the inside of the rim. Repeat at right...

Change the controller and the LCD for better ones, then you will be master of your own destiny.

They want you to be frugal in your use of fuel, but they're happy to burn hundreds of tons just for a jolly. How does that work? Can you explain?

You don't have to worry too much about sealing the side-plate. It's quite difficult for water to get in there. I've serviced many waterlogged motors, and the water has always entered along the cable through the axle, in most cases because the wheel had been wrongly fitted with the cable exiting...

The only way to do that is with an external controller, then you can use any battery that fits. The problem with increasing the voltage of a mid-drive is that it makes the cranks spin faster and reduces the efficiency at normal pedal speeds, so only do that if your a spinner.

If you have a hardtail frame, the best suspension is Suntour NCX parallelogram type. There are Chinese knock-offs, but i never tried one, though I can guess that the bearings might not last. There's also the more expensive Thudbuster.

My advice is not to get one with waterproof connectors. Apart from that, they're all more or less the same, except the low power ones can be 24v/36v or 36v/48v. Obviously, go for 36v/48v unless you have reason for needing 24v.