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I wouldn't buy one with someone elses money. They're direct drive, highly inefficient battery eaters that, unless the observer is blind, are obviously illegal.

This where the confusion lies. The 250w rating is actually a maximum continuous rating, this is what the motor can take continuously without overheating. This is the rating that will be stamped on the motor. However all motors can take more (governed by the controller) often 6-700 watts, in...

Yes. I've used these in the past...

OK, so I think lock down madness is truely kicking in now. I've been in touch with Kinetics about one of these: https://www.kinetics-online.co.uk/recumbents/hpvelotechnik/streetmachine/ I know, a bit rad - right? It's long term planning and I'm hoping it would extend my cycling life with...

Hi Tony, Unfortunately names and numbers mean nothing in the e bike world. Anyone can set up selling bikes they've put together from parts bought and stuck together. Put up pictures of The whole bike, then detail of the motor(with any markings), the display, the controller (if you can find it)...

Knock yourself out, look at ABS enclosures. https://cpc.farnell.com/c/electrical-lighting/enclosures-racks-accessories/enclosures-boxes-cases/plastic-enclosures

Lot's of posts here about this kit. The motor is direct drive so not good at stop/start and hill climbing. It's happiest on flat high speed runs. At low revs it will be inefficient using lots of battery power to turn to heat. They seem to use a high current controller so need a high maximum...

This may be partly understanding the system. Obviously over 15.5mph the power will cut out and will not re-engage until below this speed - perhaps 14mph. There is also a delay between starting to rotate the peddles and power kicking in. But, once initialised at first start up, that really...

Gonna need more details. What is the origional kit? What motor is it and what are the connections - number of pins? What controller/display combo's have you bought? Is the battery healthy, should read 41.5-42v fully charged?

The former, he'd probably scavenged that from a duff motor.

To add, you should be aware that there are two systems of providing the power assist. All legal bikes have to be peddled to get the power. One system uses torque sensing. This senses the power you are putting in and gives you a percentage adding as assisstance. i.e. 25, 50,75 100%. The thing...

Don't go brakeless on the front - it does 80% of the braking AND would make the bike illegal, it has to have two sources of braking. There are work arounds for brake sensors but depends on the kit.

Nice looking bike. Friction drives really are naff with really high tyre wear, as Neal says, and low grip in the wet. Also Bath has some mean hills around, not sure how it would fare. Drum brakes prohibits a hub motor, so the only possibility is a mid mount. Can't see detail but your bottom...

I used oi live just south of Birmingham. The family used to use the canals a lot for leisure rides and I used to get out a bit on utility rides when practical. However 20 years ago we moved to West Wales and our riding just about stopped. Maybe a couple of times a year we'd load up the car...

Good find on the brake adaptor, can't see any detail but it's worth a try at the price, see what size disc it will accomodate. That then clears the way for a rear hub. Have you thought of Magura HS11's for the front. You would end up with two levers so not sure how that would work out. But...

A front hub can be OK in steel forks (though mine are ally), just make sure to use a torque arm. The dropouts need to be deep enough to take the motor axle. The only time i have problems is on very steep hills with loose or greasy surface. Pushing my weight over the bars normally sorts it...

Hats off to you for even considering option 1, however none of us are getting younger, and this ain't Amsterdam. What mid motor did you try? It's going to depend on the bottom bracket configuration. A few more detailed photo's and Tony from Woosh may be able to help you. I think getting a mod...

Hi Dave, Gonna need a bit more than that to go on.

The battery current limit is what the battery is capable of delivering without damage to the battery. The actual draw is determined by the controller, so 38A controller will allow 38A from battery. Two batteries each capble of 20A will allow 40A but you should, if possible, have battery max at...

I would also look at putting a Magure HS11 on the front for the sake of safety.