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41.3v is a bit low so the battery is either not fully chargered, is unbalanced or the cells have aged and 4.13v is the max they will take. Without opening the battery and reading all ten cell group voltages then one can't cypher the issue . Alternatively the LED display may have become...

Can we see some clear pics of the potted controller and the wiring .

Do the batteries give a voltage output reading ?

Revos are 7s , the original batteries use Panny PF cells afaik.

We always recommend a KT (Kuenteng) S06S 6 FET controller or if you have space a SO9S 9 FET controller, LCD wise one can use any KT LCD all are compatible. The controllers use current control rather then the cheaper speed control systems. There are approx . 10 LCD's to select from the LCD3...

It's not being throttled back, speed wise it is like as lot of OEM bikes compling with EU law regarding speed just a shame the hub is rated as 350w. Brands use anti tampering technology to prevent unwanted warranty claims out of their control.

Cannodale don't modify them , they order an OEM custom spec sytem for their bikes. One expects like a lot of big brand OEM bikes they stick rigidly to the 15kmh cut off, more and more of these big brand OEM bikes will come with anti tamper systems even hub bikes. Surprisingly though the...

The only way to know if a Revos will work well with a generic controller is for someone to try it and add a display for funtionality. One would need to carry out some wiring alterations dependent on whether one has the Sq wave or sinwave drive and likely will need to try all wiring combo's.

What is the actual issue with the Revos ? Controller pcb is a bespoke one ( I beleive) with Revos 's own firmware so not generic, however the bottle/controller base is a generic type and sold as a HT1 by TopBikeKit. Being a friction drive the Revos is display less and is a speed controller...

Is your battery capable of delivering 26+ amps ?

Bilyboya is buying pads , inners , outers and some calliper adjusters . And now hasn't the proper tool to cut the outer with now , if they aren't cut correctly then the ends become squashed and inhibit proper cable actuation. Should have asked before buying and bought the hydraulics to start with.

Hydraulic brakes are pre bled with mineral oil or DOT fluid. Dot fluid is old hat and only some brands use it now, the mineral oil used is expensive if you buy the the shimano or other branded oils . One can though use LHM auotmotive mineral oil which is much cheaper. Mineral oil is best...

Already done that. All this pfaffing and one would have fitted the HDB's for far chaeper.

Hello. Ask away if one has any queries , small or big .

:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:.

SY22 is the hub model DGW22 nothing to do with current. The next assumptions are likely correct that the hub is wound for 48v for a 700c rim. The rest may be related to factory or customer serial no (in this case Woosh ).

The different names are the chemical make of the cells cathode. LCR = lithium cobalt oxide cells . LNR = lithium nickel manganese cells. Most modern cells tend to be LNR cells which have higher discharge /current ratings.

40.5v is low for 10s, cells might crap or the pack unbalanced . What cell rating ? How have you welded the cells ? Are there some bad /poor welds? Which Buss material is used ? Below is a genuine Eve 25P 20A Cell.

Hydraulic brakes on bikes os nothing new , they have beeen around for at least 20 years. Once hydraulic brakes are used one will never want to return to crappy cable brakes .

By the time one has spent money on outer cables and inner wires etc,etc, price wise one won't be far off getting entry set of hydraulic brakes for much the same money. Bicycle Hydraulic Disc Brakes Front Rear Calipers Set for MTB Mountain Bike Left Right Brake Lever Kit with 160mm Disc Rotor -...