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Two wire BMS will charge/ discharge thru the same port so utilising the same switching components this can allow for greater current charge though in most cases will be detrimental to battery life. Three wire charge /discharge via seperate ports so will utilise seperate switching components...

Curently for my needs I'm using 'Be Much Safer' brand. They have some with balance and some without, I also prefer switched BMS.

No turning back now Cadence .

d8veh and I keep beating the same drum , when it comes to generic controllers a KT set up for it's money ( £70 - £100) simply can't be bettered.

Thanks for posting harrys , might be of use for those of us running the Tongsheng.

The only difference between the two BMS types is the charging . 3 wire has seperate charge port , 2 wire one charges and discharges via the same port . Those DALY's can be a bit suspect and fail , if one does find it fails then use another BMS brand. I have had a couple fail on me , one...

I had two bike set ups with parallel batteries and at the end of each journey both batteries on each bike was in much the same ball park voltage wise. My Boardman had a PF 14.5ah cases battery and a softpack of PF 's 10s 8p a simple Y lead connected them but always made sure charge voltage...

I had two batteries for longer rides , 160km from one battery wasn't pssible for me.

Some of us never bother with diodes, we simply used th KISS option for day outings.. Charge both batteries to the same voltage within 0.02v and connect up in parallel. Diodes and the extra wiring etc I can understand if touring esp as Matthew does , as he can't guarantee where or when he...

The tubular one at 22mm could be a seat tube option but it does beg the question of cable exit.

Argos have two 700c EAPC's under £500 but the batteries are small , approx. 8ah but should be good for 20 mile bimbles.

Two batteries used singularly or as one will have much the same range from my experience . Pro's and cons, one will have a much larger capacity and voltage will remain higher initially , as one rides deeper in to the discharge then at some stage power output will always slowly decrease...

Some of us have gone down that dual set up route many years ago, for simplicity one can beat just having them independant and just disconnecting and connecting a fresh battery when needed. For me the set up was handy to run lion 36v in series with a 3s cell pack for 48v . In my lipo set up...

We know Cwah smoked his AKM100's as he has documented saying so ( makes me think what pranks he is up to nowadys) , we know 48v 20a is too much but one can always try 15 -17a . d8veh is of mind to think that even 17a may strip the gears, if using 36v then one would say 17/22a should safe.

I haven't seen a rear small AKM 75 or G370, the nearest is the 2.1kg AKM 100 or TBK 100AD copy/clone ? There are also the rear 2.1kg Keyde and TBK100's with the inner controller , TBK is fairly weak at max 9a the Keyde is 8a but TBK say's max 26a in the specs which sounds a bit suspect to me...

SImplest route is to just connect them seperately .

This is the issue with so called ' specialist ' shops , there are non. They either know it or they don't and that is one reason why this specialist forum exsists and has done now for some 18 years. Most of them have little idea of how to carry out simple diagnostics on the simplest EAPC...

Big difference in placing a small lightweight hub very centrally in a rim vs a heavier knobbly tyre on the outer circumference of a rim. Weight/mass placement is very different in the above two scenarios.

A front hublike the G370 or an AKM75SX can't be compared to other generic geared hubs, they so small and light that they will have little or no effect on the bikes handling.

Tbh if the battery is ok and one has fitted a generic BMS so that it charges and the charge is good 41.5v to 42v , I would gho the whole hog and dump all parts that expect some sort of handshaking. For less then £100 one can have a bike that uses all generic electrics and simply replace the...