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Despite that which we have said do go back to my #3 and read the second sentence written. Contact the supplier /vendor first before doing any thing else.

If you have a meter carefully check the charger output voltage from the charger jack it should read 54.6v, be careful not to short pins and probes together. Via the battery charger lead probe the v+ & v- for a voltage reading as well.

If fully charged battery should be 54v - 54.6v. A solid green led on the charger doesn't indicate anything , it simply means no current transfer to the battery so no charging in process. Typically all generic type chargers are dumb chargers and will only charge if the battery BMS allows...

Has anyone watched /seen the recovery of the Booster from the latest Falcon rocket launch yesterday ? Fantastic acheivement to control the re-entry , postioning and engine firing to slow the Booster down and then the piste de resistance was the final capture of said Booster at the launch tower...

The P1 setting for the Gtech hub will likely differ from the Yose hub, so one will have to alter that one . I am only guessing the Gtech will be 5.1 gearing but one will have google or look thru the search area on the forum to find out.

Eddies mighty bosh had issues with his mud plugging days.

AKM nylon gears are readily available from TBK , the AKM100 doesn't have to be run at 18 -20a , one can run it at a lower setting. My 1.6kg G370 mini small front hub coped fine with my pre surgery 82.5kg weight + towing a trailer with 90kg payloads. I have yet found the need to use more then...

P1 is good. P2 /1. P3 /1 . P4 /1 to be legal with C4/3. P5/12 - 15. C1/ 5 , 6 or 7 which ever picks up the PAS best. C2/0 is usually the default, one can try all the others or a few secs but not with full power. C3/0. All C3 does is determine which PAS level the bike display shows when...

3 seconds per mile isn't much as shown with the AKM , it is perfectly rideable should delivery power fail. The same ride with a std 5.1 ratio geared hub would take more effort and sap ones energy. Likewise the same with a BBS vs TSDZ mid drive, riding a BBS unpowered is one experience I would...

If one really wants a front motor then Surly Disc trucker forks imv are the perfect partner for a hub, my Bafang G370 has been faultless and fitted perfectly in to the drop outs. Make sure the forks are nice sturdy ones and steel , at over £125 Surly DT's are cheap but they are very good...

Sodium/mositure ingress is one sure way to killa battery let alone other bike parts.

Great result , it is surprising how many of these issues we see from time to time. One can negate removing the wheel for punctures by removing one side of the tyre to access the tube for a repair or one can try a Gaddi tube .

Not going to like the whip slashed buttock if that friction drive chain lets go. I can feel the pain already before it does let go.

Tbh bike conversions using exsisting bottle rivnuts aren't designed to take heavy 3.5kg + batteries , the issue is vibrations and the sideways movement of the battery mass. Extra strapping is the way to go to make sure of a nicely securing the battery on a bikenot designed for one.

Yes with the UPP do make sure it is properly secured , there have been issues in the past with battery build quality . I have used a Wolftooth B- Rad mount base for down tube batteries, but tbh any heavy battery on a down tube fixing needs extra strapping support to prevent sideways wobble...

Ensure P2 /1 is set for current control. C1 PAS set up will be value 5 ,6 or 7, one will have to see which works the best.

As d8veh has said do make sure the motor Julet connection is 100% pushed to the hilt where the lateral embossed line is , sometimes even 1mm is enough to ensure connection is intimttent and cause the rough running sound.

List your P & C's so we can see the current set up. Which Yose hub do you have , Akm 95 ? If it is the AKM 95 then the P1 needs to be set for about 160 for correct running. C2 is you phase sequence option, value 0 always works straight out of the box for all my hubs but you may have to try...

Tasco battery is 30a rated so 20/22a controller is fine , it all boils down to the hub used . In most cases one would be a bit conservative and limit current to 17/18a which is plenty of power at 48v. At 18a 48a will produce approx. 650w of power to the motor.

If not bothered by the 250w limit then AKM-128CST 48V500W Rear Driving Hub Motor Cassette motor For ebike [AKM 128CST 48V500W motor] - $116.25 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce (topbikekit.com) Looks the same and is visually smaller then most 250w hubs.