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Most likely yes. The torque arm will help to prevent the slight axle movement that occurs when the drop-out/axle isn't a totally snug fit. This loosens the nut as time goes on. You've got nothing to lose and everything to gain by fitting a torque arm. Last thing you want is that wheel to pop...

Not one to use for transporting the family heirloom then :eek:

Anyone know if SportsHQ still do their occasional 20% off discount?

I would say mine's the opposite, as I really pack the grease in there. Either way, this is not the most free spinning of drives.

Strong V brakes, now that's a first :D

If you take the plastic, final drive, side cover off, you will then see and understand why the chainring will never spin like you are expecting it to. Grease on the two cogs will slow them down, just by the sticky nature of grease. Also, the final drive cog and chainring just haven't got enough...

Yep, same on mine ;) Stop worrying and ride like the wind :p

Also, make sure that the final drive plastic cover has been screwed down properly. There's very little tolerance between the cover and chainring, most noticeable when that area gets muddy and gritty. Don't overtighten the screws though, as the plastic cover can split around the screw area. I...

Totally agree with the others on this one. Rivnuts alone won't be enough to keep it attached. If you go for a rack, don't go for a cheap aluminium seatpost style. Been there, done that.... and it snapped within 2 miles :(

Spotted this battery on eBay, which may be of interest to someone. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/electric-bike-battery-/332103186976?hash=item4d52e47a20:g:h0wAAOSwLEtYiP7k Strangely, they state it's for a Kalkhoff, but the battery shows KTM on the label???

Yes, but don't go overboard. The less snug the axle is in the dropout, the more you're relying on the torque arm to stop the axle twisting out. Use a Dremel with a fine grinding stone attachment, or a fine hand file. I found I didn't need to file the dropouts when I had a 14mm axle.

Just to add to that Dave, to give an example of where a motor doesn't fit the 'normally' description. My old MAC motor was a geared rear hub and that had 14mm axles. Alas, vendors aren't very forthcoming with product dimensions in their listings :(

Why not just buy one of each to avoid disappointment. You'll only be down eleven quid on the unused one. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Torque-Arm-for-Electric-bikes-e-bikes-and-Pedelecs-/252680077959?var=&hash=item3ad4e80287:m:mzmjnRvUM0OWnNGXCSPZWHA I've used these ones from Cyclezee before, and...

Fastest I've ever been is 35mph, and that's slightly out of my comfort zone. You must have balls of steel :eek:

I agree, but I'd rather a new member gets bitten by the electric bike bug, by riding a bike that's full of zest, rather one that poo poos off the starting line. Due to lead acid's poor performance on electric bikes full stop, new batteries are the only way ahead.

Great idea in theory, but a Gaffer lamp will only draw a few amps at most. An electric bike controller can require many more amps to work properly. A duff battery may power the lamp satisfactorily, but not the bike I'm afraid.

Why not just get your existing battery re-celled by http://www.bga-reworking.co.uk/ Drop Jimmy a line. He'll probably be able to fit better quality batteries in there too!

This is a quote I nicked off the Candle Power forum, and I'm inclined to go with them: " What usually happens to SLA batteries is they dry up. They have lost their water. If this is the case, it is shot. SLA batteries also HATE to be stored in the "dead" mode. That will do them in too. If...

Mount one of these to the front of your bike. Should do the trick.

Just to add to that, when I owned one of their previous models, I had to make a warranty claim on the battery. The communication and turnaround, to get a working battery back, was pretty good. I can't fault SportsHQ's pricing, customer service or warranty claims procedure. I reckon their 20kg...