Search results

I've seen some specs for these as a 6.8 amp maximum current draw. 4 x 6.8 = 27.2 total max for the pack. I don't know the ratings of your controller, but potentially 20 amps. Controllers do overshoot their rated current in certain situations, so could hit that 27.2 amp max on a regular basis...

Dave does make it sound easier than it is, but he's been tinkering with electric bikes for a long long time. If you are not confident with electrics and mechanics, then buy a ready built bike. Start upgrading the Cyclamatic to higher power and be prepared for motor problems at some stage...

Looks good and will go the speed you're looking for. Big step up in speed and power of the Cyclamatic, so be careful, but go for it :) Get the Samsung 29E or Panasonic/Sanyo battery pack. Steer clear of the Samsung 26FM.

As I mentioned in a post above, I think the trick is to allow any sealant to drain out of the valve stem before inflating or deflating. I always do this at the 6 o'clock position, as my theory is that the Slime should move away from the valve under gravity. It's worked for me so far.

Might be just the new controller white connector, has backed out of the socket a little. I noticed when I replaced mine that it was covered in sealant, which was a pain to totally remove. If any sealant was left in the motor unit connector when you replaced the controller, then it may not have...

I would personally go for the 13s5p. The BBS02 battery display will be a bit more accurate. Plus, I think the overall mean voltage, including sag, will be a little better as the pack gets drained. Voltage sag is what kills the oomph in the BBSxx's, not initial voltage.

Yeah, Alibaba selling them, doesn't inspire confidence that they are genuine. Although, I wouldn't have thougt Lunacycle would have been roped into selling a scam battery pack.

Mmmmmmm, Nealh appears to be correct. Can't seem to find any spec sheets for the 33g :(

Do I detect a hint of sarchasm, or are you being genuine Dave?

At least the original looked cool. That looks like a penis on wheels.

http://www.standard.co.uk/news/london/bizarre-moment-confused-driver-ploughs-down-steps-in-central-london-a3464836.html?utm_source=ToyotaOwnersClub&utm_medium=ForumLinks

Totally agree Dave, I think if the '3' were to mysteriously turn into a '2', and the assist cut-off set at 15mph, then that would satisfy 99% of inspections. If the bike stops assisting at 15mph, then I don't think they would have the know-how, equipment, or inclination to test any further...

This is a duplicate thread that has been started in the wrong section. Here's the current active one. http://pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/bafang-bbs01-250watt-kit-programme-settings-please.26852/#post-357393

Yep, got a 30Q planned for the end of the month from Eclipse myself.

But if it's the same mechanically and has the same controller, programming to 250w specs, plus removing 350w marking and replacing with 250w plate, should in theory make it identical to a 250w version. The other Dave will be along soon to blow my theory out of the water :p

Think you pretty much answered the questions yourself. Overvolting, say a Bafang, would require a new controller. Plus, there could be heat issues, affecting reliability. Best way to get the maximum performance out of a crank drive, is to use a high continuous C rating battery pack. Samsung...

I was under the impression that the 350w had the same mechanicals and controller as the 250w, only programmed to 18A and not 15A. So in theory, can be programmed to be within legal parameters. Could be wrong though.

Yeah, but that beast looks like it would just laugh in the face of winter :eek:

Reason why I'm asking if the plate shows 350w on it, plus if it assists above 15mph. They do matter I'm afraid, both easily measurable ;)

Two things first, does it have a manufacturer's plate on the bottom of the motor unit, stating it's 350 watt? Also, does the motor assist you beyond 15mph?