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If you have two motors, you will need two controllers.

Get it re-celled here: https://www.bga-reworking.co.uk/

Just by way of comparison; I have an Ezee hub. About 18 months ago the bearing in the motor casing starting grinding horribly, out of warrenty. Spoke to Cyclezee, he sent me a motor casing laced into a 700 rim for the princely sum of £26. It arrived the next day, I stripped down the motor...

That's just wot I would have said:Do_O

OK. So you could add a rear hub to your own bike with a frame battery , to move some of the weight forward. First thoughts are that it would be tricky to power the tag along as you would need control cables coming from the main bike, so you keep control of what that motor does. A tag along...

So will your son pedal/be active? If not, maybe a cargoe trike may suit. Something like the Baboe: https://gratis247.nl/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/mamaplaats-bakfiets-250.jpg Although you've said he's a big lad, so perhaps a rickshaw trike would be better...

Don't disregard hub motors. High torque hubs such as the Bafang BPM are near bullet proof. Ezee hub motors are big, strong, reliable and legal (250w). You could have a battery built to your own spec by Jimmy at Insat international (maybe in a frame bag?). How about a rear wheel hub with as...

I learnt in one of these: But it had 'Town and Country' tyres on the rear, that and having a big tool box in the back gave me some great skid control lessons. Also it had a restricted carb. So, if you were doing 40 in 4th and change down to 3rd you would slow down. Happy days.

Not sure what you mean chap. Is it that your front derailleur doesn't move enough, or is it that the rear arm is making the chain too tight?

It could be that the battery hasn't been used for a while or is old. It will show full charge (this is merely indicating voltage) but won't have much capacity, or cells could be out of balance. Try putting the battery on charge and leave it for a few hours after the led has gone green. This...

Hi Karim, So the motor cuts out when going uphill or starting from a standing start, is that right? Do you know how old the bike/battery is? Do you know when the bike was last regularly used before you bought it?

Woosh

Yeh, and they're already stratospheric, for overcomplicated fault prone systems that can't be user repaired. (Ooo that's upset a few:eek:;)) Just saying, going on what I read here. My £1000 (for bike purchase + hub kit) is still going strong after 5000 miles. The 10K/h progressive speed...

With your condition you need a bike with PAS rather than a torque sensor. Pas will continue to deliver power whilst the peddles are just gently rotated - no force applied. It then matters not if you have a throttle. A torque sensor needs you to apply effort to get any assist. Many throttles...

There is no noticeable resistance from a geared hub motor. The 'treacle' feeling is simply the experience of no longer being assisted. You'll feel it at any speed if you just turn the power off. However, at 15/16 mph you have a significant amount of wind resistance to add to the bike weight...

Here's an interesting one. Although since Cyclezee retired, I don't know if there's a UK dealer. http://ezeebike.com/gallery/longabike-2/

And another person falls for the 1000w label.:rolleyes: It's a direct drive illegal motor. Good for high speed on the flat, highly inefficient at low speed and crap at hill climbing. It will eat your battery. To deliver a 1000w your battery would need to give a constant 20A. Good luck with...

IGH = internal geared hub.

If you've got a decent triangle size, you could go this route. Get these guys to make a triangle bag: https://www.alpkit.com/products/stingray Then get Jimmy at Isat international to see what size battery he can fit in it. I'm guessing quite big. http://www.bga-reworking.co.uk/contact/

What, the organisation whose members are appointed by their mates and hasn't allowed it's budget to be audited - EVER?