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Yep seems to be the main reason a lot folks join. Instead they should do their homework and read forums about various hub or mid drive to see which motors ride nicely above the speed cut off without too much extra effort or none at all.

It may just be that the motor doesn't like the Kt controller, personally I have used a few different hubs with sinewave Kt and never encountered an issue so can only assume it may be an incompatability issue.

Yes is a phase issue. What is your C5 setting, is too much current being asked for ?

Do let us know how it goes, we should here good news once the Gnd is reconnected.

It does Daniel , I tried it once when out on a ride going from C2 0 through to C2 5 , commutation was terrible and made a right racket.

Firmware might be hard set at 15.5mph/25kmh.

The red to blue is a good quick fix to get you going but then one is limited with the PAS option, not to critical with the speed controllers but with a current control systems one loses the much greater versitality of such a better system.

Finding a Lishui LSWcompatible duisplay isn't that simple as often they still need pairing with controller via firmware etc. Your best option is to replace the LSW controller with a KT one then it will 99.9% work, buy a controller from the same buyer where you bought the display.

Try P1 84 and +/- 4 to 5 in single increments either side.

Looking at #2 the solder on the diode ? top right looks a bit holey and a bit iffy . Also the resistor middle of PCB very RHS has a iffy holey solder. But first make the GND connection first as without it you have no chance.

The black GND /Ground wire is broken, it needs to be resoldered to the black end coming out of the main trunk cable. In #3 you can see the broken end , you may have to strip the black outer sheath back to expose a bit more of the Gnd to solder to or if the trunk supply cable is long enough cut...

We need pics and an idea of the control system used. 03 error differs depending on the system, it can be phase, hall , PAS or even brake. Telling us 03 on it's own doesn't help much.

Tsdz2 has too much air space/gaps so no escape for heat to the outer metal casing as a heat sink. Ideally if heat was an issue then the heat mods need to be done to fill in the empty gaps and fill the spaces, air being a poor convector of heat so thermal heat pads and sthin copper plates can...

Likely as usual going to fast .

Looks like Rick is in the USA so should find something suitable.

The longest I leave my bike locked is 20/25mins when I do a food shop, I use two heavy duty D locks to secure the wheels/frame to the bike stand hoop.

It only take seconds even in supposed safe locations.

I nip it up as tight by handa possible first with the C spanner then give it the hammer treatment, gives another good 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Loving the tsdz far far better then the BBS01 I had.

Drill the center out .

Any cable will be a weak link and not insurance rated so a waste of time using , a pair of pliers side cutters would eventually chew threw a cable. Personally for a decent D lock I don't think one will get better value then an OnGuard lock with 18mm shackle.