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It seems there was a connection issue as it was intermittent when I tried it. I have melted some solder into the phase and halls to reinforce their connections then made sure everything was secure. Fingers crossed

Hmm maybe we spoke too soon about it working fine. She has complained of cutouts on the way to work. If it's anything like mine it's the crappy fets overheating, reducing the current should sort it. Maybe the c2 setting is still wrong, am I right in assuming this does the same as swapping the...

So the LCD does handle the cutoff, great. On our shopping run we brought two panniers full of tins and bungeed a load of pop and beer to the rack so the motor was understandably stressed and it worked great. Better than mine actually, the 20a controller I use likes to cut out unless you limit it...

Nevermind the limiter wire was plugged in, rode to shops and hasn't blown up yet lol

It's running. I had to mess with c2 as it was running rough, now it's ok. The throttle doesn't seem to run at full speed but the Pas does, any idea what's going on there?

Yeah, I'm just wondering if the KT LCD 3 sets the lvc, the BMS has its own but it cuts a bit low for my liking

Well It came today and I opened it up, turns out it actually does have 63v caps. I will see if it runs, still going to order the proper one but I suspect we might get away with running this for a short time at least, have read a few success stories of people doing the same

I know it's correct because I ordered it separately from the same link I bought mine That's what I feared, we will sell it at cost and order another more carefully

The LCD is definitely correct as it's the same listing I bought for mine. I'm reading mixed things online, some are saying if the caps inside are 63v then it will work, was thinking the controller might just throw an error though. Looks like I might have some explaining to do hehe

I am upgrading my wife's bike to 48v, we have accidentally ordered a 24/36v 15a controller instead of equivalent 48v one. The battery has a BMS which should protect it, and the KT LCD should show the correct charge anyways. The question is will it even run? Anyone got experience of doing this...

I installed the other hub and it works, so in this case I guess it really was the hub. This wheel brings its own issues though, the spokes always sucked so they will probably start breaking. The wheel was never dished properly anyway so all the more reason to rebuild

I have tested the other hub and it works fine though? We have a KT en route as we are upgrading it to 48v so if it is the controller no big issue. I may still lace this hub as it's a faster wind, unsure why this one works fine through?

So the neverending gremlins have struck again, this time on the wife's bike. The hub started making a loud noise upon startup which smooths out when up to speed. I replaced all the connectors and still the same, I'm guessing either mechanical issue or the hall sensor has failed. Is there...

Surely this still isn't right though, does this mean it's going to fail again if this is happening? Definitely seems like a flawed design unless my motor is just a poor match

Ok well I managed to get a cutout today from a dead stop, it is nowhere near as sensitive as the old one was but its present. I'm thinking it's a thermal issue as you say as it got pretty warm for not a lot of runtime. I run it in open air but it is warm today. Is there anything I can do...

Happy to report replacement is working a treat, the fun never ends for me though, my throttle snapped on the way home and a puncture patch failed as I was fitting the new controller lol. It's so much more powerful than the brainpower one I was using and it's nice to have my integrated lighting back

Ok thanks for that, I'll see if the new one behaves

Would it tell you if it was thermal cutout? I ran mine naked on the frame and the outer shell stayed pretty cool. Sometimes when it cut it would say error 6 which is a short, either it was a dud or my motor cable was. China ems seems to be giving my replacement a grand tour of China, tracking is...

It's been a blast! I have since upgraded to a 48v battery and KT 20a controller, this makes the thing fly, unfortunately it stopped working, think the controller was just a dud though. The motor wire was looking worse for wear so I bought a new one along with a cheapie controller from Amazon...

These controllers are weak, I'm using one temporarily on my Vulcan as my KT controller was faulty and blew in the end. A KT 20a controller really brings the Carrera hub to life especially with a 48v battery which I also upgraded to. Try out a KT controller, if you still aren't satisfied consider...