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My bike which can do up to 25mph is currently awaiting a new controller. I am currently using my wife's which does the legal limit. I must say I feel a lot more vulnerable going 15mph, and don't feel that more speed is unsafe as long as the brakes are in good working order and common sense is...

I have experience from modding my own. As said above you need a standard magnet Pas sensor. Plug the phases in colour to colour, then plug the two thin green wires together and turn the bike on. The wheel should start to spin. Disconnect the green loop before turning it off and you're done. As...

Yeah already figured it out. Think it was the cause of the cutouts too, opened the controller and it looks like the shunt has been arcing against one of the caps and eventually blown something. Piece of crap

Well tried another hub, it's not the hub either... I'm lost

Ok my hub has just totally died, wiring seems ok. If I push the bike backwards and blip the throttle it will engage and run unloaded, loaded it will not. It is also very loud, I think the internal gearing or the clutch is knackered, maybe that's why it wouldn't run at higher current because it...

I had a feeling they were talking a load of crap, not sure why when it's their own product. How would I install a capacitor? I still think the battery should be able to cope without mods unless of course it's faulty, I've seen many bikes with BIG motors using similar Chinese cells and KT...

I have since asked the manufacturer what is going on after determining that there is no physical fault anywhere on the bike. They have said that the current is higher than the controllers limit on startup so it cuts power to the motor. They recommended reducing current via C5 which I have...

In terms of quality yes, if you don't mind the higher cost for things like a new battery it's a much better bike. Nothing wrong with the westhill just the asking price is far too much, you can get that spec for a lot less money

The westhill is very overpriced for what it is, cheap controller and hub motor at that price is silly. You can get a bigger battery and better specs for less, have a look at woosh bikes. The haibike is a crank drive and will climb hills better but spares are expensive for those sort of systems...

Which settings? I already changed the battery wires to a heavier guage which changed nothing. The seller rates the battery at 25a continuous, 50a pulse, nothing fancy should be needed unless a connection is sucky or they have grossly overrated it.

Throttle does it worse but its present on both. Connector seems solid but can't see where the wire joins without butchering it I guess

They are all solid, I made sure of it when I ditched the connectors. I have an in line plug further down, any way to test if that's bad?

The description says it must have sensor, this is the model ￡18.57 | 36V/48V 500W Brushless DC Sine Wave sensor Controller ebike Electric Bicycle Hub Motor Controller with right output https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bgBuptJE I tried a lot of P1 settings and settled on 100 which seems to be...

Mines sensor only I believe. I was using probes in the motor plug, between each 2 phases they measure between 0.4 - 0.7 ohm, if I wiggle the wire this can jump to over 2 ohms. I suppose it's not the most reliable test, I'm at my wit's end with it. I get what you're saying that it would cut on...

I don't know, but I measured the phase wires again today, I discovered the resistance jumps around if I move the wire at all. On closer inspection it looks like the wire got pinched a little, this could be the culprit. The insulation on the phase wires is rubbish so it's fairly possible that it...

Mainly that the motor cuts from a standstill. Reducing current on the controller stops this, been chatting it over on endless sphere the verdict there is an intermittent motor short that the multimeter can't seem to pick up. So it's either strip the motor down or wait for it to get worse I...

You need a new controller. Under the battery is a box, open it you will find a box with wires coming from it to the motor, sensors display etc. You have to cut the wires and add crimps or solder directly to a new controller. Then you have to change to a compatible display, pedal sensor, and...

Yes I understand it to be "torque simulation mode" as they call it. Speed is set to the max 72km which my motor will never reach. Can confirm they fluctuate but stay pretty consistent until I reach a certain speed where it will drop off a bit

um yeah as Nealh said typo indeed, that would barely power my lights lol Yeah 43 is the limit before voltage collapses and the BMS says no anyway, I'd have gotten maybe 5 miles more if I was lucky and the ground was perfectly flat. It's been a while since I went on rides this long without a...

Since changing to a KT controller I have done a 32 mile round trip in power assist level 3. I think it is in torque mode as the wattage stayed the same throughout, round about 300w. On my 13ah 48v battery I finished the journey with 4.55v which to be fair is nearly dead, but there are some...