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Get your money back, mine were decent, the display broke on my first one. KT are way superior in battery life and functionality though, difference is night and day.

Not sure what's going on, I've had two of these and they worked ok. Buy a KT controller + LCD from pswpower on AliExpress, these work great

Wasn't that as it was happening as soon as I turned it on. Have soldered the phase and power lines direct and it still happens, likely a battery issue of some kind or the motor stalls under too much current. I did notice it was getting hot in the bag under use, now mounted naked on rear rack and...

The battery is the culprit, I changed mine to 48v. Ironically I have cutouts now if I push the current too high... But yes a KT controller and potentially a higher voltage battery make for an amazing ride

Thinking about it this won't work either as the BMS likes to cut above 15 amps on that one. I had cutouts with my 48v on old controller too, they were random, I chalked it to bad connections and overhauled them. When it happened it was the exact same behaviour, except it would go away on its own...

Can potentially hook up a 36v yes

And if that doesn't work?

Should I just take the bullets off the phase wires and join them direct? Never known this to be a problem before

Joined the power lines with solder, same result. Hopefully pswpower can shed some light on this issue

These are big hubs, I'm fairly sure it can take the abuse. Changing the power lines will tell

They have replied saying it should handle it. Could too much power to the motor cause this? Officially it's a 250w. Another issue could be the crimp sleeves I extended the power lines with. I might remove them and solder them together

According to pswpower the max continuous is 25a so on paper it should be doing it. The power leads seem thick enough and never get overheated. Maybe 65 Chinese cells just can't do it, thinking about it the sag at it worst was quite big but probably doesn't actually qualify as collapse as it...

So what's cutting the current, the BMS or the controller? When I get past the startup on full amps I can peak at 980w without it cutting off, it must be trying to pull more than that on startup. Wonder if there is a way to tweak the amps curve so it can use that power without pulling too much at...

Ok the error came back on Pas. I have reduced the current so it doesn't go past 750w on the display and now runs fine. That must be the batterys real limit

Agreed, I didn't even realise I just thought the pic was just an example of the bag. Who says home builds can't be tidy? On the flip side my modified Carrera looks like it crashed into a spaghetti factory(wires everywhere), I really need cut some wires down to size so they're not haphazardly...

I am sure it's the throttle now, but I am tackling this issue too. I have removed the extensions I made to the phase wires that were probably too thin for a controller that peaks near 1000w and replaced them with some nice thick ones from an old controller as I think this was generating some of...

Ok I have just realised I cannot reproduce this issue on pedal assist, therefore I am now pretty sure the issue is actually coming from the throttle, doh! Are they repairable at all or is a trip to eBay required?

Just looked up the error codes and it states "signal recieving error" so the p20 setting is looking even more likely. If that doesn't fix it send it back. As for the one that sent one without LCD input, why aren't you kicking off? They've clearly dropped the ball! I've used these "brainpower"...

I can suggest you NOT to mix those wires. My display broke and it was suggested that I short the wires to get the controller to power on. Unfortunately I got the combination wrong and the wire started smoking violently... Don't do it lol. Anyways, if you hold the up and down buttons for a few...

I have been considering this option but my trailer might get in the way. Was thinking maybe a box under my rack if it'll squeeze in there with some vents drilled in the bottom