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TBF I was looking at the cheapest speedO bike comp and there's a cool wireless one for £7.50 free p&p Edit front hub sweet - the best option imo - just watch out for nasty loose gravel or stone chippings at traffic lights, at full PAS set offs you'll wheel spin like crazy with them tyres!

And old ebike scooter without its body shell - a guess

You would need to ghost some settings from an LCD3 via a pricey and rare cable if I was to hazard a guess, the guys at cyclotricity should really of done this for you if the are UK based, using your wheel size. Either buy an after market KTLCD3(or better) and check your wiring connectors if...

I have yet to see the cables for one of these. I ended up soldering some XT90 to the power out of all my controllers and hand crafting an extension cable, I do favour the julet connectors but only motor and 4to1. For future builds I am considering staying with KT, Julet but changing to Bafang...

Shame really - code 12 should be 250rpm - that was a code 08 - I would have complained to AliE CS they are usually good with handing money back without returning the item.

I believe this is a YOSE proprietary battery to controller power connector, if you are looking to make an extension cable best to contact YOSE, as mentioned above by vfr400 save yourself the hassle and use his idea.

Some of these LCDs are only programmable if software altered via a PC - I think.

It's a lesson to all, how often my better half skips over important T&C's and goes straight to "OK"... and I firmly I believe these manuals, warranties and T&C's are inherently designed to be the most tedious documents ever known to human kind :rolleyes:

Oh bugger not good, in cases like this you could ask to open an official complaint with the company, be polite and just list facts and gauge the feel before you ask for a contribution to fix the issue, depending on the warranty info you could argue it is a warranty issue and the entire bike...

Do your P4 and C4 setting look like this? P4=1 C4 = 4 [C4 has a sub setting XX-50 this I assume is KPH] Each PAS level will limit the throttle power PAS 1 being slow PAS 5 being fast, If you install a PAS sensor however on any PAS level whilst pedalling the throttle will over ride that setting...

Oxygen must be aware of this issue by now you'd think they would check the wheel before dispatch - however oxygen have great customer service so keep on em. My mate experienced the same issue with his e-mate years ago...

It hasn't gone unnoticed of late - shame really our much loved forum is a spam sanctuary compared with others.

Ooh I copied a spacer I got with my Yose 250w kit years ago, I got two spacers and two "C"[horse shoe] washers with the kit... found a laser cutter online that did small jobs and got 4 full spacers cut to fit the hub motor axle they cost about £15.00 LaserMaster

Yes good sir I am in England - If you need my controller it will save you a long wait from China - if you hover your mouse over a members picy, it should list a location for said user, if the user has listed location data in their profile. I am going to attempt to purchase a PAS from...

I did not get on with my 22a controller, same as yours quackstar84 - it worked but caused all sorts of problems with my 36v batteries thinking LVC was 33v even with the settings changed, TBF since going 48v i have not tried it and if I was still on the 350w rear yose I wouldn't push it past 17a...

Is there no way of fixing this yourself with an after market part?

I can not seem to find your comment, I assume you are referring to the cutting out of power intermittently for a split second, if so was your controller hot? I now believe my original motor was not at fault but the controller was.

Thank you, good sir - The offer stands if you change your mind - I too found the rear kit to be less effective on gravel and canal paths and I am now enjoying the less appreciated front hub - better weight distribution throughout the entire bike and even though I am running 250w 36v on a 48v...

I have a motor internal, however my side plate is freewheel and these were sent by YOSE cs to replace the original I purchased, as they were as I deemed, faulty... This was either the motor at fault or the controller I never did get to figure which was at fault YOSE said motor I later discovered...

Check the motor housing, rim and spokes mine tore at the rim near the spoke nipples 3 months after a true at a solid bike shop, also the disk brake nuts go straight through to the inner motor, its worth checking if they are not intruding on to the motor, if that makes sense. Sadly this is not...