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I am old school with a dolphin battery and I loved the stealthiness of an integrated controller but there is now only one supplier that makes em and charge the earth... I noticed that the external controller were square wave, I always assumed they were sine, I found an external sine on aliex...

Like you mentioned I think you had gremlins! I am glad your new kit is working as excepted. I'll check....21.3 PAS 5 full throttle amp draw set at 13.6a - I have to remind myself to lift the front wheel up and not the rear lol - It's always best to try and eliminate the easy parts first, I...

Any update on the new kit?? - I got my 48v battery from PSW and a new 17a dual voltage controller from Aliex - I had a strange one sounds a bit like your initial problem, I had to go back to my YOSE fron 250w[(36v) running at 48v 13a(lcd reduced)] due to wheel rim cracking issues with my YOSE...

It already does 18 on the 36v setup 15a, I was thinking 19-20 max would that be a major issue? + I have had another look at the PSW 48v battery - its really cheap... http://www.pswpower.com/ven.php?cargo.2017-5f-31t0 The lg cell used when google lists a "did you mean" "LGGEMB261865" and then a...

Yer I remember you mentioning that a distance post ago, good to know it'll be about the same as a 350w on the front. Just waiting on the next dual voltage controller to arrive

I am going to call it a day with my rear YOSE 350w wheel after I heard a spoke like ping and found a small crack on the rim near one spoke nipple. Dare I say it would cost more to source new spokes and have a trusted shop rebuild the wheel then to purchase a new one at £135.00 for a front 350w...

I know that feeling and it will be nice to treat myself to a new battery for the sake of future proofing of course! In all fairness I think nearly 4 years is not bad going since I bike everyday or at least 350 days a year and cover between 6 and 10 miles a day, more in the summer!

30/40+-0.5v(dual voltage) Yer I would normally agree, I would normally swap out at 33v but lets not forget this is cutting with the voltage sag of 3v from 37v resting, with this controller I am lucky to get 12-15 miles per battery depending on weather not mentioning the uncertainty of little...

That was one of the initial thoughts, the amp draw does hold true with relation to watts seen however that said I think it is 1a higher than 22... I have even tried setting C5 at 3 approx 11a and it still cuts out at 33.5v. If it is LVC is it software related or is there anything visual...

So I changed all the battery to controller connectors to 14awg wire and XT90's - Still the 22a(set at C5=5 for 14.66a) cuts out at 33.5v HOWEVER I did get my shuntted YOSE 15a controller back from my mate and XT90ied it up and rigged up and shock it got down to 31.5v no cut outs on max draw...

I was in the same boat on that one but my batteries are 3.5yrs old and not doing too bad considering they been dropped a few times. I have to say I am a front hub advocate, my 1st 350w was front and a part from reading a few horror stories about suspension fork breaking I never had any major...

I thought the XT90 would be enough am just going to wait and see if the new 17a has the same issues, I plugged the 15a (dolphin mount controller) in the other day and everything was perfect, I am slightly worried though because I think that's the last cheap dolphin mount out there otherwise it's...

I was wondering if anyone had any issues with them as I thought my problem was the battery to controller connector after I replaced everything with XT90's. My battery on the 22a controller limited to 14.66a was doing so well yesterday, then it cut out just before home, I was well gutted I...

Snap poll - How many of us are using the YOSE two pin female power connect from their battery to YOSE two pin male connector on the 15a YOSE controller?

Or self quarantine for 14 days after fitting! I have a 17a controller coming on a plane from China, I was surprised it got out so quick, most likely made on the other side of China...here's hoping

Yer man I got ya - that's how I was thinking until, literally 3 days ago I saw that dual controller, the way you do it, is simple easy to the point and If I may a good way to get a feel of how an "all in one" setup would be weight wise... I had looked into this ages ago with the 250w just...

I saw this and I wouldn't mind looking into this I believe there is some wiring that goes from julet to JST for the LCD and motor, the PAS would be easy to source... I haven't look at this in great detail from a dual battery aspect...

I would say paying £180.00 for just a motor, I would hope it lasts at least 2 years and does a few thousand miles any less than I wouldn't use that company again if possible, lets not forget YOSE was born out of the cheap DIY easy setup ideology and to that extent it has worked and worked well...

I can only speak from little experience - the only down side to quality brands based and made in china is brand copying and this is rife throughout China and in most cases you'll find people saying they last and are most durable and others will disagree, as with most things, I purchased a...

I believe the black hub is the newer version, my YOSE 250w is in black and it has a much better finish and overall look to it, I also think the black hub is only supplied with the battery(full) kit. Yer its not looking to good the silver finish is peeling off in more than one spot. I have not...