Search results

Successfully installed the front 250w, with a full charge, c12=4 default and c5=5, there is a 2v-2.5v sag when throttling at a stand still on PAS5 though I would assume that's something to do with the lower RPM of the motor, as the weather has been horrid I have not have much chance to drain a...

Yep hence the list. Yep mine was at 4 and I did change it 0 - with 37v & c5=5 c12=0 there was no click or clunk it just cut out as before lcd still on no watts etc I always assumed there was no settings held in the controller a part from the basics it need to fuction ie LVC and Voltage...

This was the problem when I first got it, however IMO this is not how they should run, my 350w Dillenger front never missed one beat until the hall sensors gave out after 2000 miles then after replacing them it did another 2000 miles with never a cut out or a pause, then it died sadly, I know...

Got to 37v on the 13ah today 10 mile covered c5=5 (16.54a) then it cut out, reduced c5=4 (14.66a) still cut out over PAS 2, reduced c5=3(11a) no problems... A troubling thought is still plaguing me, why would I not see any cut outs on the dolphin mount 15a controller even at 37v??

Good to know thanks, I thought the VTC part sounded sony. These German guys tend to go for cells with high mAh but stay with 4p, the battery linked is the only one I found so far that is 5p - £344 ish with a 5 amp charger and that's with free shipping, £333 3a charger then 12 euro for shipping...

Sorry people its this old chestnut again... https://enerprof.de/fahrradakkus/rahmengestell-akkus/akkus-48v-13s/57/hailong-plus-rahmenakku-li-ion-48v-13ah-vtc5?number=900320049104&c=71 us18650vtc5-vtc5 (murata or sony?? or same company??)

Words of wisdom - so far so good with the 13ah 7 miles covered and pushing it a bit more than a normal ride, standing voltage at the end was 38.9v, as you mentioned 3v -3.5v sag (noted while watching the voltage on the LCD) when setting off from traffic lights at PAS 5 (not normal practice) and...

As you guessed I am still concerned about my battery wire connector, so thanks for the info! Yep true I never thought about it that way... I went out this morning with 13ah balanced reading 42v from charged, c5 @ 5, no cut outs on a quick journey, during this I watched the voltage on PAS5 on...

Thanks for the input, yes I did this, I always watch voltage rather then watts and the battery indicator. When the battery is half charged the voltage was standing at 37V then after the motor, either on PAS or throttle would drop very fast cut out the controller/motor but the LCD would stay on...

Just thought I would start a new thread were the Yosepower kits are concerned and the generalised field of customising any ebike ekit is concerned... My current project has hit a wall - Customising a Yose 350w rear kit (36v 26" 15amp) for the sake of future proofing and to allow a 48v battery...

Here's a quandary for all - Most controllers come off the production line and get given a printed sticker, on that it states that the amperage for this unit is +-XX amps, assuming the reason behind this "+-" is for either component variance or they might have changed components during production...

If your wife is happy with the basic setup on her bike, why not swap the controller/LCD3 to your kit when it comes and when you had a play/ride with the Lishui, just remember to change the wheel size settings, then you can gauge for yourself which one suits your ride style. For me changing the...

I fitted the new 22 amp dual voltage controller to the Yose 350w motor today and set the amp draw to 16.54 amps (c5=5), a quick lap round the block everything seemed in order, PAS 5 topping out at 550w(ish) then levelling out to 360w at 18 mph with pedal power. Due to my battery I wouldn't think...

Might be an idea to start a new thread

Email YOSE for the manual for the Lishui and KTLCD3 manuals then you can compare LCD's

I am following you now... I have no experience with these Lishui controllers/LCD... Its always good to know the in and outs of Amps and Voltage where controllers and batteries are concerned, I would assume you could swap out these controllers and LCD from lishui and use the KT(Kunteng)...

http://www.ebikeschool.com/myth-ebike-wattage/

Usually applies to VOLTAGE not wattage, eg the my YOSE 350w kit came with the same 36v 15amp controller as the YOSE 250w kit did, wattage is just the recommend endurance of the motor run over a period of time... a 350w motor can operate at 350w for a "day" constantly without over heating or...

You COULD buy different 4t1 cable with red female ends and swap the YOSE 4t1 cable that should open you up a cheaper option for brake sensors than going to YOSE however it may end up being the same price in total as the YOSE brake sensors, you may save a few quid if you look at cheaper shipping...

That could be good news, one would assume that the factory would supply the EU and not ship it back to China lol, however would this sell parts to the end user or would it be solely B2B sales?? I have a feeling average joe public wont notice any changes were EU imports are concerned, like you...