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It's a shame hub makers don't make the axles a bit longer ( 12 -14 mm) esp on the LHS , one then could also thread on or fit a tralier hitch better . One has to be careful when only part of the thread /nut is tightened , it is possble to strip the thread in time. As it has the inner...

To me adding another switch and a bunch of wiring just adds more clutter, nearly all bikes have an on off switch or the option of 0 PAS. One just needs to think and simply apply the actions as second nature.

Simply switch the KM off and on , if one doesn't want PAS activated.

One would have thought a shunt mod would be needed.

That BZ10C type Pas sensor is far superior then the all in one jobbies.

Older style ebikes akin to Jap styling , Sakura & Powabyke spring to mind.

My KT LCD3 already has this function as std, one simply toggles the pas to zero.

To aid pulling the cable thru solder the new cable to the end of the old cable ( solder two or three of the phase wires) and then apply spread/grease from the fridge on the cable outer to aid in a less friction pull thru . In all the years I have used hubs , I have yet to damage a cable at the...

Looks like we may see a Tri - drive, though I noticed the tyre have been part removed . Possibly if 2wd then the front hub will go.

If the damage is at the cable entry /exit point then repair is likely to be very tricky or near impossible. One may have to opt for opening the hub and threading a new complete cable through.

Very efficient are Woosh , simply great people to deal with.

Just add the torque arm with no filing , easy to do and easy to return to a std push bike with undamaged drop outs.

If the cell pack is ok , then the inner cell pack is of some value to use on a generic pedelec set up by fitting a new generic BMS.

For my self build soft packs , I add a second set of sense wires to the outside . My softpacks are contained in a zip up battery case.

On OEM push bikes it is very unusual to have deep dropouts to accomodate 12mm axles, at the least they need to be 1.5mm deeper and more likely 3mm is needed. In time the ali drop out can wear on the ends . Woosh OEM bikes will have a torque arm , more discreet ones are often used today rather...

I couldn't see a torque arm/plate , one will be well advised to try and fit at least one to prevent any axle spin out.

For ebike batteries one needs one of the BT/uart BMS's if you wish to monitor cell groups closely. Cost is greater as is BMS size , one reason why they are used generically .

Yes you can, 5A is the max rated charge current.

If the bike came with the rack and battery, then it should be sold with the same pair so that the battery is secure and fits/docks correctly on the bike. Any new owner lely won't want to pfaff about finding a correct rack that will fit.

Yes that is often an issue with proprietary electrics that are WP, for us mere mortals who use nice KT sm stuff it's not an issue.