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Yes Harry correct. The rhs one whips out the bearing seal and if the bearing isn't a tight fit loktite the bearing in so it stays put, on the outer face I used a neoprene 1mm penny washer glued to the outer bearing surface to weather against damp /dust/grit. Both sides are 6902rs size, llu-max...

The op can have a throttle as long as it is a pedal first option throttle or a 6kmh twist and go /walk assist mode. The pedal first option removes the twist and go legality, UK law only states one can't have a twist and go though walk assist is allowed. One will need to buy a KT 6 mosfet 36/48...

+1 as said , it is a waste of money to willy nilly just buy stuff withut knowing the ins & outs. Should have asked first. Some vendors of kits like to mess with connectors and put on the reverse of what is often available from a third party , that said if one hunts around an opposite M or F...

With the tsdz2 axle play one needs to an extra bearing on each side of the crank axle, with the cranks off its a two minute job.

My rokshok's eventually was metal fatigue at approx. 1k miles, I was in the back of beyond on the S / downs on one of the 100's of many tracks to find. The only way I could get the motor wheel to stay put was to reverse the forks (Halfrauds style), tighten the TA's and ride home the 30 odd...

I love my small front bafang g370 in my road rat though it is mainly a road use bike with light trail use. I wouldn't want the pfaff though of having to remove it though to put in a car. Steel forks no need for torque arms at 250w, would only use ali forks if they had serious meat around the...

For my local use as a few on here will already know, is a 6ah 2p 12s HG2 diy bottle battery. With diy small builds, one can use what ever cell/s are on the market so generally will be something far better then available in ready made ones.

And what the blazes is all this to do with the thread topic , talk about going totally off topic D8veh only yesterday grizzled at Guerney for taking his thread off topic !!! I know you guys are bored and have little else to add the topic title but why not start a complete new post covid thread.

Could be a faulty display ?

Stick a bit of 4" x 3" 100 grit sand paper in your puncture kit and rub it inside the tyre to save yor fingers from any potential cuts. The first thing I do with a puncture is to check for an object in the inner tyre that may have penetrated.

I use small lighter battery for local riding and then take extra battery capacity for longer rides, when not on longer rides I alternate the smaller batteries so all get used.

One expects a high % of buyers have little knowledge of bike repairs / maintenance knowledge let alone anything electrical, this isn't just Woosh customers but in general across the board.

Endless sphere forum over the pond, it is very international.

Speed and times are irrelevent , it all depends how hot and sweaty you want to get during a commute, slowly arrive fresher at work and fast on the way home matters not. For leisure riding it matters not , the slower one rides though the more of the surroundings one takes in and sees.

SCL is likely for the speed control side of the controller which is an option in the settings. S1 is speed related , likely from hub sensor to display. Pop over to ES and ask the guys over there , they will know every bit regarding the KT pcb.

Not bad for a 13/14 mile commute. , tell us more about the bike set up and terrain. My brother who posts on here sometimes does a 20 mile commute in about an hour or just over but does this on a speed pedelec.

Not looking hard enough, there are some deals to be had but not all deals are true bargains. I saved over £50 on one BF item I wanted on AliExpress and just yesterday a non BF item in a winter sale on AliExpress has saved me another £55 on an item I had earmarked in my watched folder.

It is the one that the mid drive fanboys can't comprehend and likely most of them have never seriously tried a decent hub controlled bike for long periods like us in the know. In comparing both one has to be honest with both of the drives merits and one is certainly not better then the other...

It appears only the ES abusers seem to have issues with the Tsdz2, they tend to push to much power through the drives . The axle breakages appear to be with the longer BB axle models. That said they have done a good job in showing up it's issues so that the rest of us can make the small mods...

Tsdz2 compared to BBS imv is a no contest win for the TSDZ2, the TS drive being far better then the cadence torque control of the BBS. The KT torque control is also much better then the BBS I feel. I find the Tsdz2 applies the power better so much so that a throttle is less likely to be...