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As Tony@Woosh has said they do supply spares to owners but don't sell individual parts to any old person, often a third party will repair the bike if one isn't up to the task.

Ann power BMS I found have always been good better still if one gets one with a switch, sadly though they don't (or didn't) when I wanted one make a smaller 12s one . One reason why I tried the acronimic BeMuchSafer brand.

One can now buy AKM 128 sxhc cassette motor it is 800w rated, weight is good 2.8kg.

We see issues with bespoke type kits (mainly controllers but sometimes batteries ) which fetch/ have expensive price tags on them , most have tiny little batteries though they are great for lightweight often fall short of what the user needs. For kits and bits you will see a reocurring theme...

The 15a Kt's suffer from thermal cut outs (mosfets get to hot and temporary short out) this occurs in high PAS and going to slow up inclines , I found the answer was to swap the 6 mosfets controllers (so6) for a the S09 version .

I have a box that easily straps on to the CF if needed so the Vidal framed type isn't needed , without the box CF is far easier for storage.

There are two types of wiring both plug and play, either waterproof with moulded plugs which are not easy to fault find (without the know how) or the square SM type plug where one can fault find issues easily . The KT uses current as the power control which gives far superior relaxing...

From the topbike kit store on AliExp. eBike 36V250W Motor Controller KT Controller Kit 24V/36V15A+Throttle+KT-D12L PAS+Brake+KT LCD Display/ Ebike Motor Controller - AliExpress If you have the space for the controller (slightly larger ) I would opt for the 9 mosfet 22a controller for better...

Abnormal current usually means a controllee mosfet fault and it is likely a thermal cut out, once it cools it swtiches again to work until the next cut out. There are cheap similar controller kits that use the the carppy speed control but I woul dadvise spending few more pounds and buy a KT...

New brake fitted and the sxtra braking power is quite noticeable, had to buy a matching lever for the opp side . The shimano 2 or 4 pot calipers and all levers are 100% interchangable so one doesn't have to use the I -spec levers.

CF #2 up and running , now can choose short or long flat bed for cargo use.

That's a nice looking step - thru. Good job on the bms , I hope it lasts longer then the two I fitted. If one day you find you have no power and only see residual discharge v's then it's new bms time again. Daly's have suspect QC , one can only hope they have upped their game.

My Ute longtail with 250w tsdz2 @44v also tows the same trailer with ease.

Over 180lbs load not inc the trailer pulled gamely by a 250w Bafang G370 1.6kg front hub motor 201rpm @44v and no throttle in sight. This is on the Worth Way the old Three Bridges to E.Grinstead line now a traffic free bridleway. 500w /1000w will only be better if you throw more current at...

Usually one would have the tow hitch on the opposite side to the motor cable, my carry freedome allows the tow arm to fit on either side.

No was at 36v, It was a Woosh kit thye came via John at Cyclezee.

It's simple if you read the #5 correctly, one leaves the backing on the aluminum tape so there is no stickiness to get stuck . Place the ali tape over your sample printed paper , keep the ali tape in place with a bit of sellotape at the corners and then reprint the whole lot again . When...

The motor should be fine even though a wee tiny one, my Bafang G370 is weeny . It is smaller then my Alfine 8 by about 2mm and I run it with a dual voltage KT controller at 44v , it is a front motor and tows a 200lbs loaded trailer with out issues. Going up steep inclines might be a different...

If you really need connectors get some 3 way wago's but other wise simply do as mentioned and solder direct with a bit of heat shrink to insulate each joint.

My 201rpm BPM @36v tops out at 19mph with a 20a controller.