Search results

Before you do anything you need to know the continuous current rating the battery can out put ,this will be different and lower then the batteries peak out put. Continuous and peak output are very different, peak output is the max current the battery can output temporarily say for 30 secs. As...

Going back to your first post, I had a battery (actually two the same) and I had the same fault as you had. I could ride 64km in PAS 1 but when using PAS 3 , I would only get about 29km and the bike would cut out sometimes due to voltage sag. The batteries were ageing and starting to get...

Apart from 12.5ah capacity test as mentioned he hasn't given any testing figures , current loading and duration are needed. If he tested at at a lowly 0.5a - 1a then the battery will not have been stress tested to show up any fault.

Approx. 23mm. I wasn't very impressed with Vruzend , too many contact issues and balance issues.

If you show us a pic of the motor connector and the pin layout we can then see what to suggest. Theoretically the only wiring that may need looking at might be the battery connection , again a pic of it will help. Most controller kits with lcd, PAS & throttle and speed sensor if needed simply...

Any PAS sensor should work however you will/may have to swap the wire sequence about. It is highly likely a LSW wire sequence is different to a KT. As it is a julet type them yes buy a kt sensor and use C1 and either 5 ,6 or 7. In my experience I found PAS sensor with a Kt controller worked...

Looks like a good few fastfood menaces being taken off the road, maybe next time they will stick to legal type kits. The last pick looks like a normal rear geared hub but like most of these bikes they will have a twist and go throttle or simply no speed limit.

I use a bar end 60mm dia mirror that folds under the handle bar out of the way when not in use on the RHS. Proper glass not plastic mirror. BriskMore Black Bar End Mirrors, HD Glass Convex Lens Bicycle Rearview Mirror, 757233511390 | eBay

XT not XC.

The only wire to wire same colour pairings that will usually work are motor Phase and motor Hall wires, though in all there are 36 wire combo's to try should the initial pairings not work.

That sm3 connector Brown/Black /Yellow is the PAS connection so not surprised the motor doesn't work. For your info KT connexctions are ; SM3 Red/White/Black is ext speed sensor. SM3 Red/Black/Blue is throttle. SM3 Brown/ Black/Yellow is PAS. Best to show us a pic of your connections.

You shiould have carried out the Hall sensor test before buying a new controller , I did mention this in #9. To test the halls set your meter to 20v dc and probe the Black negative Hall supply wire against the three y/b/g Hall wires each in turn , you will need the battery /controller power...

For kt everything is plug and play whether you opt for W/P or the user freindly SM block connection sytsem, just buy everything from the same buyer. You need a controller, a lcd, a wheel speed sensor (if you don't have internal hub speed sensor), a PAS unit and throttle (if needed). Motor...

I use my KT's in PAS 1 99.99% of the time, I find the 13% current draw of a 22a controller more then enough for my needs . If need be one can easily opt for more current as and when needed , not something the LSW's can do . Woosh programme theirs's a little higher with PAS1 at approx. 40%...

You will have to buy a KT LCD of which there are a dozen or more to choose from, the C500 will switch on but will have limited use . Speed control generally is poor for battery range/life as they give mostly max current all the time , with a KT you choose the current amount to use 13, 20, 33...

Replace all of them and not just a few , if you don't know what you are doing then best to buy a new complete battery.

It is doubtful whether you will find a LSW current controller so your best option is to buy a kt along with the necessary peripherals, then the only wiring needed is maybe the battery connections.

What you are seeing is severe voltage sag and that which is typical from batteries that can't supply the current demand put on them, it is clear your SLA's aren't up to the job.

Looks like a bespoke OEM fitting so one is very unlikely to find a non OEM part, you will have to pay the premium price from the bike supplier or swap evrything out for non OEM stuff.

Are you going to do a capacity check ?