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Did you check your controller pin outs before buying the throttle ?

The CF is a Scot's incarnation and the original company & designers were in Aberdeen, it was later that the company was sold abroad.

Eric's was the monicka given to Jerrys in Aufwiedersein pet in the 80's. I think for the most part 2010 - 2020/1 the Yframe is a v.2.0 and after that might be the v2.2. The v2.2 is the latest incarnation and the Y frame likely the same and the version is just the newer upgraded look /spec.

I have adapted the vaude sprung tow arm to fit the CF hitch but I simply don't like the effect of the spring or the tiddly wheels . The new Y frame should be here next week from the Eric's, cost was about £85 when coverted from euro's.

Yes have a 180 front set up , the four pot will just give better braking with 100kg pushing from behind. The pre-bled new brake arrived today not bad for £45 , a BL M6100 lever & BR M6120 caliper. I could go further and put the rear 180 rotor set up on the Boardman on the Ute for the rear two pot.

I doubt it can be incorrect otherwise the item will never be of use . It might look like a julet but it surely would be a Higo or a Higo copy, the pin outs would have to be BBS compatible otherwise no one will buy them . Simply use a meter on your bbs throttle connector on the controller side...

The vaude isn't too dissimilar to the Homcom.

Like my Ute I have a front brake upgrade in the offing , a new 4 pot calliper upgrade.

Not overly enthused with the Tektro's on the bike so an upgrade to the brakes is on the way, going to replace them with Shimano's which I have no issue with. The front will be a four pot 4 pot upgrade and the rear simply replaced with a two pot calliper I have on the front of the Road...

The tinny vaude xl trailer is getting the heave ho , not liking the smaller wheels and tilt angle of the load bed also the cheap coupling /spring is a horrible solultion and one can feel the trailer as you brake and it compresses mashes togehter. I much prefer the solid draw bar and the...

They will be ok for a controller with max 25a rating. The only unknown is the quality/grade of the cells used. I bought a 14.5ah Panny PF battery off them some 4 years ago and it worked ok.

EBike batteries use the very best cells. Do your homework, visit the various forums to search for Unit Power Pack reviews. That battery claims may or not be true, it suggests a LG 4800mah cell is used , try and find a 4800mah LG cell dat sheet ? They make 5000mah cells but not 4800mah. You...

They could be a cut above the rest !

Mistakes are easily made without the knowledge , it doesn't mean you are dumb. You are simply entering a world of unknowns until you gain the knowledge. A numb nut is simply someone who doesn't listen or heed the advice given. As to your display I believe you need a brainwave controller for...

Quite simply the controller wiring is basic and supports basic three speed . Always ask first and post pics before willy nilly buying parts as it all adds up cost wise.

I haven't read the manual but if the info is there to read then be guided by it and ignore my comments.

One will generally go by the battery specs of the cells and the BMS specs fitted to the battery. They would have been or should have been available from the vendor.

It is called incompatibility, generally all advice is to buy the controller and display as a pair if you are not 100% sure. The display is uart/digital , the controller isn't and is anologue .

8a one assumes is approx. 50% of you controller rating , it might just be that the cells simply can't handle the extra speed and the current in PAS 3. One is assuming as you have a 3 PAS display it is speed control , ultimately one expects the battery cells are just unable to cope.

Does the bike still ride ok and you get good range or does it cut out ? Like issue is a bad battery led reading or a possible wire fault, if you bought the bike new then the battery has a two year warranty so take it back to have it looked at.