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I'm willing to help where I can, but I'm sure you'll be fine.

I'm most often accused of cheating by non cyclists, when I attend the office at work. I can normally keep my cool, but if I'm caught off guard I will snap back: "I'm cheating? How the f*ck did you get here today?" Many of these people think that driving solo, one mile through a city in a seven...

The Big Bear is a BPM, which is very high tourqe. Don't know what's in that kit, bit I'm guessing an SWX of some sort. That being the case, the Big Bear will have a lot more tourqe. But you are young, and weigh about the same as my freshly laundered underpants so its probably not an issue for...

I would go kit, but then I enjoy building stuff. I think that's what I comes down to in the end: Would you enjoy the process, or would it be a chore?

If I were you, I'd be biting D8veh's arm off for his offer. Really, he is one of the most experienced electric bike guys on the forum, probably the country. You won't get a better offer. You can't even buy the bits for £350.

Converting a bike like that Raleigh Shopper is silly, pointless, dangerous and irresponsible. Just my sort of thing! First things first, you need to answer a few questions: 1. Presumably it is steel forks, with a 3 speed hub at the back. Assuming you want to retain this, then its going to have...

The hill topper kit uses an 8fun/Bafang SWX 250w motor at 24v. (At least it did a couple of years back)

Sheffield Mike, Sorry, its not my bike, just a pic from the web. Its not a big deal, but I don't want to hijack this thread, so would you mind posting a new thread about your build please. I'm sure you will get plenty of help. Thanks

Yes, I would have thought it would make a really good donor bike, although as D8veh says above about the road bike, brakes are important. My own personal minimum is V-Brakes. That Butler looks to have cantilevers. If it was me, I'd try to upgrade them to a set of quality V-brakes (Tektro as an...

Yup, that's idea and plenty do it. I would be a lot more reluctant to charge them in the house un-attended though. I heard of one guy who charges his lipo's in an outside loo, on a plastic seat. His theory is that if it all catches fire, it'll melt the lid and drop through!

By 'Flat top bar' do you mean horizontal?? If so, many older steel MTB frames are more like that, especially Claud Butlers: If you could find one of these in a 23" frame, would that be closer? With a respray and thick tires?

Perhaps I'm missing something, but it sounds like you are looking for a hard tail mountain bike?

My opinion is not a lot. The reason I say this is that 700c usually denotes a rim with a skinny tire, where as 26" usually means a fat mtb tire. In that case the circumference is fairly similar. If you are talking about 26" vs 29er, then thats more of a difference.

It should be ok, assuming they are of similar capacity, and you start with them both in the same state of charge. I'm not sure how the BMS's would behave in other states (it might be ok though). If your limit is battery current at present, then you will see an increase. Obviously two batts in...

It has four little seat belts in it, presumably to prevent that sort of thing.

Yes, that's the idea. You put it between the battery and the controller. It will measure volts, volt minimum, amps, amps maximum, and it will integrate amp hours, and watt hours. Amp hours is the one you are probably most interested in, as this as a bit like a fuel gauge. Others have posted...

Really, you need a watt meter (I'll try to put a link in bit). Voltage will only ever be an aproximation. But, roughly, on a 36v li-ion: 41v + = 100% 36 = 50% 32 = 0% Edit: I have one of these: http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/261448272501?nav=SEARCH

Second that, I've made two racks using the D8veh method, and they are both bombproof. The best thing is that you can make them to fit exactly.

That's the one, same colour, but with a rack on the front. It's an awesome thing! My friend bought it from a lady in Okehampton, Devon a few months back.

Thanks, I will put it to my friend....