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If I get a chance, I'll confirm tonight. It's quite high, possibly 260 ish.

W=V x A Or 864 = 48 x 18 Watts is a measure of power. That power could be applied as high current, low volts (eg 36A 24v), or low current, high voltage (eg 18a, 48v). Both examples yield the same power. Given that your motors speed (without load) is proportional to volts, and that it's torque...

With a 20" wheel you might get 18 mph if you go to 48v, but at 18 amps you are pushing the limits of what this thing can handle - it might work, it might melt. But frankly, who wants to travel at 20mph on a Raleigh twenty?

It's not 40v, it's 36v. (alternatively, it's not 24v, it s 27v) If you run it in a 20" rim, you want to use 36v.

If it was me, I'd turn up, confirm the serial number, then take it away. I'd remain polite yet forceful, but I'd be going home with the bike. As far as I'm aware finder's keepers is not a UK law.

I haven't checked, but I'd guess around 18mph in a 26" rim. At 20" I estimate 14 mph. It's not a very tourqey motor in 26" at 17-18 amps, but if you push it to 22A it should be plenty in a 20" wheel.

Thanks, I'll report back in a couple of days......

They are usually either M8 or M6. How about this... http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=150435318215&alt=web

I have in all laced up and connected to my ku65, 1/3rd shunt soldered. I'm pulling 17.5 amps peak, at about 40v C'mon then, how far do you think I should push it?

That's pretty much what I do, run main lights from he battery and carry battery powered spares.

Www.fasttech.com have loads of high power Cree torches. most of them use 18650's. They also sell adapters to fit to bars, chargers, etc. I have an ultra fire WF-502b that I use as a backup light. I cannot imagine you would need anything brighter. It cost less than £10 delivered.

Transport: I have a towbar and a cheap eBay towbar carrier. It works perfectly, and only cost £15. Obviously a towbar will cost some Money. Carrying Nippers: a Trail Gator, when properly setup is pretty secure. It's main advantage is that you can un-hitch the little one and let her ride on her...

Thanks, I had completely forgotten about side pull calipers, and how bloody terrible they were.

Well done Gav, glad you have it fixed.

When I install mine in the wife's bike, I will be left with a spare SWX, 24v. It must be a high winding, cos it'll go at 23 MPH on 26"/36v, but it's pretty low on torque. I'm considering putting it in a 20" wheel, which would bring it down to about 17mph and give it more reasonable torque. I...

As D8veh said earlier, it does not have to be precise, as long as its repeatable, since you are only comparing the results to each other. You do want to use nice chunky cable though, as you don't want your shunt to add too much resistance and skew the result.

1. A bit of 2.5mm twin an earth cable would be close enough. The sort of thing that your domestic sockets are wired with, just one core. 2. The cables to the meter are not critical from a size point of view. Just make sure they are consistently sound across testS. What you have suggested is good.

And yes, that diagram will also work. you will get a negative voltage like that, but if you reverse the connectors to the DMM it'll show positive.

Yup, that'll work fine.

Just for completeness, it's not my shunt, it's D8veh's. I don't want to take the credit. Dave's shunt is a 100mm piece of 14g wire. At each end is a smaller wire. The 14g wire goes from battery to controller, either on the + or - side (doesnt't matter, whatever is easier). You then measure mV...