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Measuring current with a multimeter is possible, but most are limited to 10A for 30seconds or so. You may well draw more than that, and it can be fatal to the meter, although normally the fuse blows first. The shunt trick is pretty easy to do, and I think you have it sussed. Why not do that?

Yup, that's the idea, then measure the voltage between each end of the shunt. it will be mV (milli-volts, or 1000th's of a volt). Alternatively, get a cheap watt meter - about £12. 60V 100A Battery Checker Balance Power Voltage Analyzer Watt Meter RC Charger UK Oh, and no load current simply...

Red ones are fastest.

It a bit of a shame that the displays don't show cadence - if the bike has a pedal sensor it would have been dead easy to implement with the latest gen. of LCD displays - perhaps the BMS battery LCD3 has this.

Sorry, just read your post 2 mins after heat shrinking it all back together. However, its pretty standard stuff in there: 3 phase wires (larger), Blue, Green, Yellow, 3 hall sensor (Smaller) of corresponding colour, Black, Red (Hall sensor power) white (Speed sensor probably) I don't intend...

I'm gonna cut it of and use something else. I'll probably solder it to a cable, and connect to the controller dreckly .

2.1's will turn your 29er into a 29-and-a-bit-er. cadence@10mph=114/gear ratio Gear ratio = teeth on pedal cog/teeth on wheel cog. OR Raise the rear wheel wheel, turn the crank 10 times, count revolutions of rear wheel, divide last by first.

Yup, that looks better now. It also sounds about right from experience.

Circumference = 2πR, or πD.

Its not daft to ask, but my guess is that's a bit too far, as it will go to 30A I'm going with a shunt modded ku65, running around 18A, but I'm probably being conservative. D8veh said earlier in the thread that he's heard others go to 900w, which is 25A.

I plan to spin it into a 26 in rim, and put it onto my wifes bike at 36v. Her current motor tops out around 23mph. This will be slower and give more torque which will be more suitable for her. I'll probably pair it with a KU65 that I accidentally spilled some solder on ;-)

Oh, so's mine - one day I hope to learn to count properly.

Mine just turned up - It 5 has additional smaller pins in the connector - So I guess its is a sensored one.....

If you are going to install on the brake lever, you need a normally closed reed switch (Assuming your controller is brake sensor high). Glue it onto the fixed part of the lever, and then a magnet on the moving part. When the brake is not pulled, the magnet will operate the switch, causing it to...

Hydraulic brakes don't have a wire, so a Hidden Wire Brake Sensor ain't gonna work. I would have thought a reed switch on the brake lever, or down at the calliper is your best option.

Good on ya Penny, well done!

Let's assume you have a 36v, 10ah battery. That's 360wh. This light is 10w, so your battery would run it for a solid 36h . Or to put it another way, if you run it for 1 hour, it will consume 1/36th of your battery power. Less than 3%. Or to put it yet another way, the square root of f##k all.

Oh, I see. It won't work I'm afraid. The controller has a low voltage cutout (LVC) . A 36v controller will stop at 32v (ish). Power is governed by the controller, which will restrict the current. On a 500w controller this will be around 22amps.

If it has three wires, then it's a brushless. Running at 500w, up from 24v to 36v will add half as much again top speed - are you sure that what you want that on a trike for a 7yo?

Toolstation: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Digital+Multi+Meter/p11867 Screwfix: http://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-mas830b-digital-multimeter-600v/75337 Or Ebay...