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You need a dc-dc converter. This should do it: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=291054073365&alt=web When buying these, it's important to get the ones with 50v caps on the input side, since your 36v battery is really 42v hot off the charger. It's also important to set the output...

It's a Once In a lifetime opportunity.

Sounds like one of the magnets is wrong way round in the ring. You should be able to find out which with another magnet.....or at least rule it out....

From the look of it (you need to confirm) its alloy frame with steel forks....

Looks like a good bike for conversion. My suggestion: 10ah shrink wrap battery on the rear rack, 250w BPM motor in the front. Throttle and/or pedal sensor.

With your low weight, I'd say half decent linear pull brakes (aka V Brakes) will be fine. One of my bikes has V brakes, and I've done 1000's of miles on, and I haven't been killed, not even once. I'm considerably heavier than you. Steel frames are good for E bikes, so it sounds like you bike is...

D8ve is talking about Wh here. My opinion is that 20 Wh/mile is more typical for a heavy rider with powerful motor in moderate terrain. As others have said, that means a 36v/10ah (360 Wh) battery is borderline for 20 miles.

If you multiply the Ah rating by volts you get Wh (Watt hours). This gives you a number that represents the amount of energy contained in the battery. Obviously the more the better. In my opinion, you need 36v, 250w at least. Depending on terrain/fitness, you might get away with 10 ah, but I'd...

The answer is yes, but cost and complexity will depend on what you have. We need to see some pictures of the controller/connectors before any one can help you. Make/model would be useful too.

I do mine with a 25w Antex. You really don't need any more.

He's not a Very Naughty Boy, he's the Messiah.

Glad to be of assistance.

Ah, ok. In that case, new steps no. 1 and 2: 1. Don't use solid bendy ring main stuff. 2. Do use the stranded copper out an extension lead. ;)

Like this? http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=230964430999&alt=web

'lectric bikes with LiPo's on are the least boring of all..... Welcome.

Depends on how its fixed on. Normally, it's on a bracket that fits into the bottom bracket retaining ring To change it, you will need to remove the crank arm, then the ring. Again, pictures will help....

Ok, it looks like the pedal sensor needs to be shorted to 0v.

I've made up loads of 18650 packs. For what it's worth, here's my method: 1. Tin the wire first. 2. Now apply a liitle flux to the battery, and get it clamped. 3. Get a blob of solder to flow onto the battery. Make sure it flows. 4. Place the tinned wire on top of the battery terminal, apply...

Yes, disconnect the sensor, it seems to be stuck closed.

That makes me think that the sensor itself must have failed. If it were mine, I'd prove this by holding up the front wheel, and repeatedly shorting yellow to red, simulating the pedal sensor.